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Antonio Contreras
Friday, 9 August 2024, 14:12
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The Oculto experience is something that aims to go beyond mere cuisine. It is the result of a society where everyone shares their daily lives via social media. Where showing what we eat or where we eat is almost as important as the taste of the food itself, if not more.
Here Oculto has everything to gain: a simple post from you just entering the place or seated inside will win you a few hits and likes from your circle, that's for sure. At first glance it would be hard to believe that, in Nerja (Calle Castilla Pérez to be exact), such a restaurant is hidden away, hence its name.
A façade of a residential building where the only hint that something other than a flat is hidden inside is one small black plaque, with just one word 'Oculto' printed in gold, next to a small box. The 'speakeasy' feel is part of its game, and it pulls it off very effectively. Once we enter the password sent to us by WhatsApp after booking (so forget about impromptu plans at Oculto), the door swings open and we enter a dark room, where we wait for someone to come and escort us into the restaurant.
Once inside, things change completely. All that secrecy, that clandestine air gives way to a luxurious and very visual place, where gastronomy intermingles with a somewhat 'disco' atmosphere between the volume of the music and the play of lights. It's certainly unlike anything I've ever been to before. But more importantly, what do you eat?
There are some dishes that, according to the staff, "cannot be missing from our dinner". The most famous of these is the 'Jamón Oculto'. Thin slices of entrecote steak matured for ninety days and flambéed at the table. It's not exactly ham, but that's what makes it a must. Its taste is similar to ham, but at the same time it has nothing to do with ham. It is a different recipe with a flavour that is hard to find elsewhere. A must-have that is served at 26.90 euros a plate.
You shouldn't miss one of their latest additions either, the lemonfish tiraditos (strips) with truffle. Slices of lemonfish with wild truffle, ponzu sauce, yuzu, truffle mayonnaise and shavings of tempura with a sprinkling of baby garlic. Citrus is one of the dominant flavours in this dish, which costs 24 euros.
In the land of desserts, Oculto's take on a Snickers bar really takes the biscuit, or rather the cake. It is, quite literally, a giant Snickers. So if you don't like this snack, go for something else for dessert. But if you do, you'll want to take one home for later.
As there are many dishes, but only one stomach, it's time to choose. Among this writer's personal choices is the spicy tuna tartare (26 euros), a sure-fire hit with tartare lovers, although the flavour of the tuna is slightly overshadowed by so much seasoning.
We continue with a riskier mix, a synthesis between Japanese gastronomy (sushi) and the islands of French Polynesia (where tartare originated): sirloin tartare nigiris (3.90 euros each). This combination of two worlds, garnished with parmesan and truffle, is well put together. Don't expect the usual nigiri because, as the ingredients indicate, it's not very usual. But if you're not narrow-minded when it comes to new flavours, you're sure to enjoy it.
We close with a more substantial dish, the Lotus burger. This burger is dressed with a sauce made from the trendy Lotus Biscoff biscuits and is an explosion of sauces. The meat is good, but not one of the best I've tasted. Priced at 18 euros without fries, I think it's an expendable dish. Although here, in addition to the food, what you pay for is the concept.
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