Sanlúcar, horce racing on the beach on Spain's Costa de la Luz

The beaches between Rota and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, next to Doñana National Park, are a popular choice for horse riders. It is an unforgettable pleasure to canter or gallop along white sand by the Atlantic Ocean to the soothing sound of breaking waves and the light breeze lapping against your skin in the hot months of summer.

August is indeed a good time to visit the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda to see its unique beach horse races - the famous Carreras de Caballos. The tradition was started here centuries ago when locals began to race horses used to transport fish from the local ports.

Horse racing in Spain began officially in Madrid, at the Alameda de Osuna estate, in 1835. They were reportedly held in the ‘estilo inglés’ (English style). These were periodic equestrian meetings that started the Spanish craze for races, very similar to those still held at Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

Horse racing in this western town of Cadiz province actually dates back to 1845, when the Sociedad de Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar de Barrameda (the racing society) was founded. Eventually, the society handed over the management of this increasingly prestigious event to Sanlúcar de Barrameda town hall. So, the spectacular equestrian competition was included in the summer programme of town events sponsored by the municipality and thereby became one of the most important ‘fiestas’ in the region.

In 1981, Sociedad de Carreras reformed and took back the reins of the annual horse race. The Sanlúcar races are now part of a national series of equestrian events that includes Madrid, San Sebastián and Seville. Incidentally, in 2016 the King handed over the title ‘Real’ (Royal) to the racing society.

Every year, around 80 horses and riders participate in the Sanlúcar de Barrameda races, which take place over distances ranging from 1,400 to 2,000 metres.The beach that stretches from Bajo de Guía to Las Piletas, passing through the central beach of La Calzada is turned into a racecourse. The organisers hold the events in two cycles that coincide with the low tide in the afternoon.

It is no secret that the competition attracts high stakes and prize money. For example, in 2017 the prize fund was 600,000 euros. This year, 210,800 euros was allocated, which is 8.5 per cent more than last year. The race with the highest prize money, the Gran Premio Ciudad de Sanlúcar, which traditionally takes place on the last day of the season, is allocated 13,600 euros: 8,000 euros for first place, 3,200 euros for second, 1,600 euros for third and 800 euros for fourth.

Thanks to races, the lower part of Sanlúcar becomes the epicentre of the gathering of people and horses. Incidentally, this neighbourhood of the town is known for its luxury on one hand and survival on the other. Here, gourmet restaurants and elegant villas are juxtaposed with modest dwellings. It is worth noting that nowadays Sanlúcar de Barrameda, with its beaches framed by impressive examples of early 20th-century resort architecture, appears in the list of the poorest towns in the country. However, August draws a very different clientele to the town.

The Sanlúcar de Barrameda races are indeed an annual display of wealth, or as one local put it, ostentatious luxury. Apparently, it is considered very prestigious to be among the flamboyant guests, with men dressed in long-sleeved shirts, guayabera shirts and panama hats, and ladies in summer suits and wide-brimmed hats. Such an audience gathers to socialise in VIP boxes, which are traditionally set up on the beach for those who can pay more than the basic 20€ entrance fee.