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Javier Almellones
Malaga
Friday, 13 September 2024, 17:45
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Their names give away their origin. From Benaoján to Cortes de la Frontera, there are several hamlets or villages whose name - or one version of the placename - bears the word 'estación' (station). It is one of the most spectacular stretches of the railway line in the south of Spain that has served since the end of the 19th century to link Bobadilla with Algeciras, which in its day was a link of great strategic importance and economic value.
Today it is still used for freight traffic between the port of Algeciras and the inland areas of Malaga province, as it belongs to the line that goes as far as Bobadilla in the municipality of Antequera. It is also a section used frequently by passengers who know that they can make the journey between Ronda and Algeciras in just two hours.
At the same time, it can be an ideal means of transport for those who wish to explore the stretch where this line, devised by British investors at the end of the 19th century to connect inland Spain with Gibraltar, runs parallel to the Guadiaro river, itself an important tributary in these parts before flowing into Cadiz province..
So, nowadays there are stops at Estación de Benaoján, Estación de Jimera, Estación de Cortes (La Cañada del Real Tesoro) and Estación de Gaucín (El Colmenar). All of them are part of the Serranía de Ronda. Some of these villages had previous settlements in the area prior to the arrival of rail but, in any case, all of them were revitalised after 1892, when this railway line was inaugurated. Today it is one of the most spectacular routes by train in the whole of Andalucía - just ask Michael Portillo, the former UK politician turned television presenter, who featured the route on his Great Continental Railway Journeys programme.
In fact, this train ride can easily boast of passing through some spectacular sights and places associated with the Malaga province stretch of the Guadiaro river that is almost a constant and ever-faithful companion for a good part of the route. In fact, it was planned in this way because to follow the course of the river was the best option to make this line direct, fast and profitable.
Therefore, from Ronda to Cortes de la Frontera, in addition to the four stations mentioned above (trains do not always stop at all of them), the train passenger will pass by the natural area of the Cueva del Gato (cat cave), just a few metres away from the rail tracks. Afterwards, you will pass through Benaoján station, where the Guadiaro is supplied by one of its main tributaries gushing down the mountainside. There is even a restaurant there, El Muelle, which uses an old railway building to serve up succulent grilled meats, from lamb chops to an entrecote of Avila beef.
From here begins one of the most thrilling stretches of this line as it passes through the canyon known as the Angosturas del Guadiaro, where there is only room for the river, the railway line itself and one of the stages of the Gran Senda de Málaga hiking trail network.
This leads to Estación de Jimera, where it is worth stopping off at any time of the year, but especially in summer, as just a few metres away it is possible to take a refreshing dip in the pool known as the Charca de la Ermita (there are other river pools further upstream and downstream, but not so close to the station). Also just a few metres away you can enjoy a quiet lunch or simply a snack at Allioli Bar y Más, a unique place in this part of the Guadiaro valley, known for its live music - mostly at weekends.
The next landmark on this railway line is La Cañada del Real Tesoro, also known as Estación de Cortes. Just a few metres from where rail passengers step off the train, it is possible to take a refreshing dip in the Charca de la Zúa. A swim there will refresh and stimulate you for the last leg of the journey, which will surely be the most exciting.
From La Cañada del Real Tesoro to the last stop in Malaga province the train, like the river, crosses part of another natural monument, the Buitreras del Guadiaro, which seems as magical as it is vertiginous. It is a steep-sided gorge or canyon with a sizable griffon vulture colony (buitrera). A short distance further on we reach the locally-governed village of Estación de Gaucín-El Colmenar, where the track cuts right through the centre of the village.
This village, which aspires to independence, is the other starting point - or end point from La Cañada del Real Tesoro - for the trail that leads through the canyon of the Buitreras del Guadiaro. In either direction the hiking trail would be a great culmination to this itinerary through the villages so closely linked by train in this westernmost part of the Serranía de Ronda.
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