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Sollo (Fuengirola): Caminho 2024
The Food Critic

Sollo (Fuengirola): Caminho 2024

A new menu, with more culinary daring and technique, consolidates Diego Gallegos' reputation

Enrique Bellver

Tuesday, 11 June 2024, 14:04

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In principle, what I like most about Diego Gallegos' cuisine is precisely his daring and that non-conformism that he has been demonstrating over the years and which reminds us that not everything has already been invented yet, at least in cuisine.

After two years I visited him again, this time to try his menu for 2024, his 'Caminho'. And first of all I must admit that I found an even greater technique in the elaboration of his dishes than in the 'Caminho 2022'. My first recommendation is that at Sollo you have to leave behind the culinary prejudices that we all have to a greater or lesser extent. An open palate is essential to understand the cuisine of this renowned chef who one day decided to choose our land to open his restaurant.

When I tasted the 2022 menu, I already said that it was the continuity of the R&D (research and development) experience that he was carrying out through his own vegetable garden and a small fish farm to breed freshwater fish, mostly from other latitudes, which form the basis of this sustainable cuisine and which has earned him a Michelin Green Star, in addition to the red one he has already had for 8 years. If we had to define what Diego Gallegos does in the kitchen, we would have to say that it is 'green or sustainable haute cuisine'.

This season, fish such as catfish, sturgeon, eel, trout, tilapia, all freshwater fish, along with some shellfish and tuna, not forgetting caviar, are the essence of Caminho 2024. But the most notable change in this season's menu is the combination of products that, almost without realising it, end up forming a whole on the palate. Each mouthful offerss a surprise that comes from this combination and fusion of Mediterranean flavours with those from Latin America, his native country. Diego's cuisine with its seasonal menus make up a gastronomic experience that is difficult to forget, hence the fact that at Sollo there is no menu as such, only a new list each season, and this 'Caminho 2024' is a true reflection of where one of our most daring and creative chefs is heading. A very professional dining room is the perfect complement to make Sollo one of the most promising restaurants in Malaga.

Some of the dishes

Caviar with cauliflower

Diego Gallegos' cuisine would not be understood without caviar, at least one dish on every seasonal menu. Barely cooked cauliflower and almondcream form an ensemble that does not leave the diner indifferent.

Trout and coffee

A daring combination of flavours, coffee and trout. The result is surprising for several reasons, firstly the combination of flavours and then the textures found in each mouthful. The creamed sweetcorn cream adds a sweet touch.

Catfish and seafood

The catfish is an edible freshwater fish that is very common in the rivers of America. Diego breeds them in his fish farm located next to the restaurant. A very creative dish when the flavour is enhanced with butter and seafood.

Sturgeon and foie gras

Gallegos gives sturgeon yet another twist. On this occasion, with a thin layer of foie gras and a delicate root vegetable cream, this dish is an authentic sea and mountain dish with a powerful flavour. One of the most interesting dishes on the menu.

Sollo

  • Address Hotel Hilton Higuerón. Tel: 692 425 385. Web: www.sollo.es

  • Prices Tasting menu 'Caminho 2024': 170€ Menu with wine pairing: 255€

  • Evaluation Cuisine: 9 Restaurant: 8 Wine list: 8 Rating: 9/10

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