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Nature strives to make amends for the disastrous human intervention here. Ricardo Pastor
Barranco Blanco, the idyllic Malaga province beauty spot that should never have been put on the map
Jewels of Malaga

Barranco Blanco, the idyllic Malaga province beauty spot that should never have been put on the map

Long before social media existed it had already become one of those places where you felt bad having to tell someone how to get there as you wanted to keep it a secret

Javier Almellones

Malaga

Monday, 19 August 2024, 14:20

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Four or five decades ago only a few summer adventurers from Coín, Alhaurín el Grande or Alhaurín de la Torre used to head to this location in Malaga province's Guadalhorce valley. Many made the journey by bicycle. Only a few did it riding on noisy 'vespinos' (a lightweight moped made in Spain from the 1960s in collaboration with the Vespa manufacturer). The slippery stones made for some unexpected soakings and a few laughs along the way, but there were few regrets, because mobile phones did not exist and none of those kids had their own camera.

Those with free time over summer, mostly young people on school break, almost always turned up there without their parents' knowledge, having memorised how to get there. Word of mouth worked well then among those who lived in Coín or Alhaurin, tipping each other off to the existence of real natural pools that were almost like a water park where they could enjoy themselves to the full.

It was not mass tourism, of course, although some disruption was caused to this spot, known as Barranco Blanco ('white ravine'), a stretch of the Alaminos, which then flows into Fuengirola river, eventually reaching the Mediterranean.

Barranco Blanco changed its meaning over the years. It became a summer getaway, almost a hideaway for many young people, but also a draw for experienced hikers used to walking beside, and in, rivers. There is not much worth walking there though because, once the most impressive pools and waterfalls have been passed, the rest of the river becomes less spectacular.

Over the years, the place has put itself on the map with many locals, including those who haven't gone to any great lengths to take care of idyllic places like this one. On the contrary, see the lengths they go to on their social media.

Ricardo Pastor

Long before social media it had already become one of those places where you felt bad having to tell someone how to get there as you wanted to keep it secret. Broken glass bottles, lots of plastic and other mundane debris began to show the less-friendly side of some visitors. Evidently their drinks containers weighed more when empty than when carried there full.

For many years, two-wheelers reigned ahead of four-wheelers, but the traffic built up thanks to both. Finally, the authorities decided to take action to prevent any vehicular traffic parking up by this idyllic ecosystem. Barranco Blanco has seen how drought conditions, but more so human intervention, have notably deteriorated those picture-postcard scenes of crystal-clear pools and splendid waterfalls.

Now, anyone who wants to go there in summer (usually from 1 June to 15 October) will have to face a walk of just over two kilometres. The ban is clear and concise. Access by motorised vehicle is strictly forbidden, except for the few residents in the area.

There are many visitors who, in the absence of a fence or chain, have ignored this warning and ended up with the corresponding fine for parking right next to the river to save time or effort. Even if the fine is divided between five hypothetical occupants of the offending car, the penalty will be much more expensive than buying tickets to visit a theme park.

Those who respect the rules and appreciate being out in nature this summer can leave their cars just a few metres from the MA-3303 road, the meeting point of these two towns in the Guadalhorce valley: Coín and Alhaurín El Grande.

The first few metres are downhill and in the shade, but bear in mind that the return walk will be uphill. The sun will also beat down on the walkers for a good few metres.

First-timers arriving at Barranco Blanco this year will experience some disappointment. So will repeat visitors. There is no sign of the impressive waterfall that is so often seen on social media. "Last year it was there", says the member of a group who is acting as their guide. The annual rainfall has not changed radically, but nature has its mysteries. Perhaps it wants to hide that cascade of water that attracts people of all ages in the hope that they will go away.

Frustrated by not getting a great profile picture or selfie, there is no choice but to go upstream to find another of the iconic images of Barranco Blanco where the green plantlife can be seen at the bottom of the crystal clear waters.

Someone decided to hang a swing-rope there to emulate Tarzan but, in recent years with such a low water level, it's not so much of a game any more. It's not very safe either, but fortunately from there you only fall into the water, not into the void.

Some people say that they no longer go to Barranco Blanco because they don't want to erase the image, the memories of being there. There are also those who regret the day when this place, which for years has served as a natural swimming pool for the locals of Coín and Alhaurín, was put on the map. Unfortunately, one of the fires that caused one of the most terrible forest fires in Malaga in living memory started in this area.

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