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Sooner or later there will be no choice but to get wet on these river hikes. J. A.
The Padrón and Castor: Estepona's sister rivers that put summer adventurers to the test
Jewels of Malaga

The Padrón and Castor: Estepona's sister rivers that put summer adventurers to the test

The sources of both spring forth in the Sierra Bermeja mountains above the Costa del Sol resort and then flow down to the coast, but if you plan to hike the routes you should be prepared to get wet

Javier Almellones

Estepona

Thursday, 15 August 2024, 12:35

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While there are those who enjoy an ice-cold beer in the old town, now known as the 'Garden of the Costa del Sol', or a visit to the Mirador del Carmen cultural centre to view an art collection by Zuloaga, there are some long-suffering people who, just a few kilometres away, are trying to get through a real-life adventure, which is not without pain in the soles of their feet or a few scratches on their legs.

All these different experiences can be enjoyed within the municipal borders of the same town, Estepona. This is the municipality on the western strip of the Costa del Sol that is also fashionable for its spectacular murals and for its seafront promenade that has been converted into a long, wide, Mediterranean boulevard.

Those who have chosen the latter activity, an epic journey though water and over rocks, will find themselves at the foot of the southern face of the Sierra Bermeja mountain range, the great forgotten sierra, the one that had more merits than most places to become a national park because of its ecosystem.

"Will there be water? It hasn't rained at all this year". This is one of the most common questions asked by those who are first-time planners of an excursion along one of these two sister rivers whose sources spring forth in these mountains above Estepona and which then flow down to the coast.

Castor and Padrón are the two best-known rivers in this area. Both have their source in the same mountain range and run parallel to each other, although they are separated by a certain distance. Both rivers in their own way paint a picture-postcard, water-filled journey through landscapes that typically suggest somewhere more exotic. Crystalline waters and reddish rocks under a blue sky. It looks almost like a film set, but there is no painted scenery here. Castor and Padrón are as real as their river walks can be tough. There is no adventure without risk.

Some people assume they are similar to the Chíllar river (near Nerja east of Malaga), where such adventure activities are now officially banned due to overcrowding and the endangering of its rich ecosystem. However, these rivers do not have those famous steep channels or narrow passageways. They do, however, have other attractions, such as pools of green, crystal clear waters where you can see down to the riverbed. In some cases they look just like an oasis, next to spectacular waterfalls. Such sights are not a dream, they are very real.

Getting there, however, involves jumping through some hoops. In the case of Castor, you have to face walking along a long dirt road for almost three kilometres to reach the most attractive part of the river. You have to leave your car right at the foot of the AP-7 toll motorway, which is impressive for its height at this point.

Until a few years ago it was possible to do this route by car, but nowadays it is prohibited in order to prevent possible fires in this area - a major reality as not so long ago there was a fire here. There were also those who left their vehicles blocking access to some private properties, with outraged homeowners consequently fuming because they could not enter or leave their residences.

So, after a long walk in the summer sun, you start walking along a stream that turns out to be the Castor (meaning 'beaver'). There are some small pools to start with, but soon after you reach the well-known Charca de las Nutrias (otters' pool), which is one of its best-known spots. It is also the end of the road for the many freshwater bathers who visit this location.

Many find there a physical barrier that prevents them heading upstream because it just becomes too slippery for the ill-prepared. They will miss out on taking this long path next to 'the beaver' that loses a lot of water in summer, but which still retains more pools of water further up, just like the otters' pool. Of course, you should come prepared with a backpack full of water and food, with good, all-terrain, water shoes, because these can get wet and yet have a good sole to deal with rocky areas.

In some cases, it doesn't hurt to wear socks, even if one personifies the clichéd look of being a 'guiri' (northern European tourists known for often wearing socks with sandals). Thanks to this garment, let them all laugh, you can prevent the finest sand from leaving irritating wounds on your feet.

The same applies to the river Padrón. Some people mix up images of the two rivers over the years, but they have many differences. The most important is the access. Here there is a winding road that leads almost to the first of the pools. There is some parking space, especially for the early risers. The rest of you have to do a bit of jiggery-pokery to park without troubling other parked vehicles.

The advantage of the Padrón, therefore, is to save yourself a long walk. Of course, you have to be prepared for the first puddle, because for most mortals it requires plunging into water up to your neck, although there is always the clever-clogs in the group who dodges that first dip by struggling over the slippery rocks. Don't worry, further up there are more pools and more rocks awaiting them.

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