La Doncella, the hidden cove in Malaga province that provides a quiet alternative to the traditional Costa del Sol beaches

Javier Almellones

Malaga

Monday, 22 July 2024, 17:48

Not everyone on the Costa del Sol goes in search of busy beaches, chiringuitos and the smell of 'espeto' sardines grilling. Even in the height of summer when hiking enthusiasts have put their boots to the back of the wardrobe, many still want a fix of the mountain views, even if it is by the sea.

Many nature lovers can be found on any given summer day at the Maro cliffs, a natural area that borders Malaga and Granada provinces and which offers a very different coastline to the typical images of the Costa del Sol.

Accessing the coves in the cliffs is by foot only, except for a minibus service that transports people from car parks to beaches such as El Cañuelo. Should you decide to go on foot, you are advised to do so early to avoid the heat and wearing appropriate footwear. If you're lucky you may even see the odd mountain goat on your way down.

After passing by an old Guardia Civil barracks, now divided into two tourist accommodation units, you reach Cañuelo beach, which is wide and stony, with two beach bars and crystal clear waters. El Cañuelo is probably the most popular beach in the area and there are less noisy options in the form of small coves where the difficult access becomes an added attraction for some.

A small, partially hidden cove next to El Cañuelo is also the last beach in Malaga province before this protected area becomes part of the province of Granada. On old maps it appears as Playa de los Genoveses or Playa de la Vaca. However, it is now known as La Doncella cove.

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Without the correct footwear, accessing the cove is tricky. A good few pairs of flip-flops have breathed their last breath along the way. Access is via a narrow path in the easternmost part of El Cañuelo. With no signs, just intuition, you climb up under a thick grove of trees.

Eventually you will reach a narrow path, not suitable for those with a phobia of heights, which leads to the small rocky outcrop of La Doncella below you. Some are put off at this stage by the steep slope down to the beach, so they turn around and go back to El Cañuelo.

It is easy to understand why the cove was originally called 'la vaca' (the cow), as legend has it that a cow managed to get down onto the beach, but was unable to get up again.

The only thing left to do is to take some photos, have a swim among the rocks and return to tell the tale of this summer adventure, assuming you have better luck than the cow.