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Pepe Moreno
Almeria
Friday, 23 August 2024, 13:59
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The Cabo de Gata in Andalucía's Almeria province on the south coast of Spain is a place of myths and legends. Its landscape is both seductive and mysterious. But one of its corners has an enigmatic charm. This is Arrecife de las Sirenas (mermaids' reef), which is formed by the remains of ancient volcanic activity. The shallow waters have caused various shipwrecks over the centuries, hence the legends that surround this enclave.
It is said that the mermaids sunbathing on the rocks cast a spell on sailors causing their ships to sink. It's a story similar to one of the chapters of Ulysses' voyage in The Odyssey. But the more sensible origin of the name comes from the fishermen of the area: the presence of groups of monk seals, which inhabited the Mediterranean until the 20th century, seems the most viable theory, as from a distance they could appear to be mermaids.
The cause of the many shipwrecks explains the existence of the lighthouse in this area. The Cabo de Gata lighthouse was built in 1863, on the top of the cliff overlooking the steep rock formations of the Arrecife de las Sirenas. Here were the ruins of the old castle of San Francisco de Paula, one of the numerous maritime defences that Almeria still has.
Route
To discover the beauty and magic of this area of Andalucía, you can follow the path that goes from Cabo de Gata lighthouse to Vera Blanca, either in its entirety or partially. The route through the natural park allows you to appreciate the steep volcanic cliffs, where you can see unique plant species such as the dragon tree (Dracaena draco) and Cabo de Gata thyme (Thymus hyemalis). It is a seven-kilometre route that is best done early in the morning to avoid the heat of the afternoon. It takes three hours, but it can be shortened to the visitor's taste and needs, although it is a fairly easy route.
Another interesting route is the one that goes from the Vela Blanca lighthouse to Mónsul beach. This route allows you to visit beaches such as Cala de la Media Luna or Cala Carbón.
Cabo de Gata is worth visiting in its entirety and other places of note in the area are Salinas, La Fabriquilla and Iglesia de las Salinas. Enclaves that, thanks to the architecture and way of life, transport you back to the Spain of the early 20th century. Nor should you miss a visit to the Playa de los Muertos, Cala Rajá, the Cortijo del Fraile, La Amatista viewpoint, La Cala de San Pedro - which can only be reached on foot or by sea - or a stroll around the quaint village of Nijár to look at the local handcrafts.
To end the day, there is nothing like a sunset in the Cabo de Gata Natural Park. There are several spots from which to enjoy the orange, red and purple colours of these Andalusian beaches. But one of the most enchanting is the sunset at the Arrecife de las Sirenas.
The large influx of people passing through Cabo de Gata in recent years has meant that it has largely lost the 'unspoilt' charm it once boasted. However, its wide beaches, hidden coves and the distances between villages make it a relaxed destination.
The increase in the number of people seeking the charm of this area of Almeria has also led to an increase in the gastronomic offer, both in quantity and quality. A wide variety of fresh fish - don't miss the local squid - paellas, traditional stews - such as gurullos, or tabernero - and other signature dishes. And of course there is a rich and plentiful offer of tapas that many bars offer with a drink.
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