The most expensive lists

Everything nowadays seems to be related, in some way or another, to lists. Aren't we fed up of them?

ANDREW J. LINN

Lists. Aren't we fed up with them? Everything these days must be related to some list or other: the best, the worst, the fattest. the thinnest, the greenest, etc.

A recent appearance is The World's Most Expensive Restaurants. Where would they be? Dubai, Japan, New York, London?

The number one is in Spain, Ibiza to be exact: Sublimotion. Average spend is €1,500 per head. Sublimotion is in the Hard Rock Hotel and is not a restaurant as most people accept the term, rather a theatre with a light show that serves food.

Diners' names in lights

Diners' names appear in neon strips above their seat. The panorama changes with every course, helped by virtual reality specs that take the diner on a continuous journey.

Just when it seems it will never end, the table becomes an individual DJ deck, and the show finishes with a techno dance party.

Chef-creator Paco Roncero, whose Madrid restaurant has two Michelin stars, claims as many as 100 operatives are involved in each night's show.

"Our main space...... contains more technological infrastructure than many large-scale music venues. We play with emotions, the senses, the set, the aromas, and the taste to be able to create absolutely unique experiences with each scene."

When did restaurants stop being places where we go to eat decent meals in agreeable surroundings?

Serious foodies would prefer to enjoy a meal which fulfils all the criteria that makes for an enjoyable gastronomic experience, and the less complicated the setting the better.

Indeed, anything that takes one's mind off the food, the wine, and of course the company, must be a negative.