What goes with curry?

Pairing drinks with curry is a more delicate occupation than many imagine. The instinctive choice, an icy lager, has its place, but the world of curry rewards a touch of daring.

For milder curries, especially those using coconut milk or yoghurt, aromatic whites excel. A gently off-dry Rueda offers just enough sweetness to tame the spice without dulling the flavours. Its floral lift echoes the perfume of cardamom, coriander and fenugreek. A Viognier is glorious with chicken korma or a fish curry - and Spain's Garnacha Blanca equivalent cannot be bettered.

Hotter dishes call for a different strategy. High alcohol only stokes the fire, so big reds are out. Instead, reach for low-alcohol whites or rosados with bright acidity. Better still, uncage a brut or extra-brut cava. Its fizz scrubs the palate clean, its dryness keeps heat in check, and its energy is unbeatable. The Basque Txakoli, all snap and sparkle, is another thrilling partner for chilli-heavy dishes.

Beer, of course, remains a stalwart. Crisp lagers behave impeccably with almost any curry, but more adventurous drinkers can turn to wheat beers with their gentle spice and citrus, or to session IPAs, which deliver the aroma of hops without the aggressive bitterness. Indian lagers are naturals, being practically designed for the job, as can be a refreshing tinto de verano or a well-iced sangría. And never underestimate the power of agua mineral with lime between mouthfuls of complex masalas.

Selecting the right drink means cooling, contrasting or amplifying the spice - and when you get it right, curry truly sings.