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While in London Christmas shoppers scurry around for last minute festive gifts in temperatures of about 8C and people in Berlin don gloves, scarves and woollen hats to enjoy the flea market on the Ku'damm in around four degrees, tourists on the Costa del Sol are wearing fewer layers of clothes as the sun beats down in the middle of winter.
For them, the current temperatures on the Costa del Sol, almost 20C, are more typical of spring and summer in their home countries. It has been so warm that some have even managed to go swimming. The flip-flops, Bermuda shorts and short-sleeved shirts give tourists away as they walk along the beach, on the terraces of beach bars or at restaurants in the centre of Malaga city.
Heimdal and Anders touched down on a flight from Norway's Trondheim, located in the centre of the country and the third most populated city after Oslo and Bergen. They look strangely at Costa del Sol residents who, despite the wind chill of 20C in the sun, are sporting boots and reefer jackets. In Malaga, they enjoy two huge beers and some 'espetos' sardines at a beach bar in Pedregalejo, as surprised by the weather, which they match with summer attire in the middle of Christmas, as they are by the prices. "There [in Norway] you have to pay eight euros for a beer and it's impossible to drink it on a terrace. Today it's not above zero degrees. The minimum will be minus four," they said, adding that this Christmas in the sun in Malaga will be "a luxury".
And you don't have to go that far to appreciate the mild winter temperatures that the people of Malaga city and the Costa del Sol have become used to, but which captivate those who come from abroad, even from other parts of Spain.
On a day like last Saturday 21 December, which for locals was not particularly warm due to the wind, Marta, Carlota and Eva, three sisters from León, pointed out that "a little while in the sun and it's already burning. It's unbelievable". They said this is the first time they have chosen to travel at Christmas, although they will only be in Malaga until the weekend before Christmas Day. They said they would consider visiting Malaga again at Christmas. "Malaga is very beautiful. The sun and the light that's there is a real delight," pointed out Eva, to which Carlota added that in León the maximum temperature will be the minimum in Malaga. "There, as the afternoon falls, it gets to zero degrees quickly," she said.
The 128 destinations around the world with which Malaga Airport is connected at this time of year can be seen in the people who fill the streets and promenades, although some days the hustle and bustle quietens down. The same tranquillity was evident in the Christmas market kiosks in the park, where stall owners still recollect the "bustle" of the long 'puente' holiday weekend in December, pointed out Ana Merino who sells handicrafts.
But it is not only in the historic centre of Malaga city that conversations in Spanish are mixed with those from different countries. At the Gutiérrez chiringuito beach bar, in Huelin, Adrián Borrallo pointed out there was a boom in international visitors. "The lounge and the terrace are full, and even some of the tables on the sand are occupied, even though it's windy. Many of the reservations are from foreigners. They arrive for lunch after midday and end up taking off their shirts to sunbathe. They really appreciate the climate and our cuisine. The coast's famous grilled sardines are a must. Even the Madrileños get annoyed if we don't have 'espetos'," he said.
On the beaches there were only a few groups of young people, or those who took the opportunity to read a book by the shore, or to chat. Last Saturday was not a day to swim, but more than one foreigner opted to go barefoot and get their feet wet. There were even a few daring ones who braved the sea.
In the Soho district, many of the tables reserved in the restaurants were for groups of friends with Christmas meals, pointed out Cantina Canalla. Further towards the centre, on the terraces of the Atarazanas market, in bar number one, Francisco García, said that they were full. "From half past midday onwards, the traffic started, especially from foreign tourists, who, despite the wind, continue to enjoy eating on a terrace in the middle of Christmas," he said.
At a time when the Christmas spectacle has become a tourist magnet, Joaquín Álvarez came from neighbouring Granada province to watch Malaga's Christmas lights switch-on and said he is surprised that "with little more than an hour's drive away, the difference in climate is huge. It's a real bonus". "What a marvellous city Malaga is," he added.
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