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Javier Almellones
Malaga
Friday, 23 August 2024, 15:14
It cannot easily be reached by road. In fact, it is quite a few metres walk to get there. But those who do are amply rewarded when they reach the natural pool of the Presa del Dique, in the river Turón, El Burgo.
Some people give up when they realise the drive from Malaga to this village in the Sierra de las Nieves takes just over an hour. And that's before seeing the last winding stretch of road, which must be taken whether you are coming from Ardales, Casarabonela or El Burgo.
There is no mountain village without twists and turns. It is true that the road from Ardales onwards has improved a lot in the last two years. Potholes have been filled in and some sections have been widened. But it is still as winding as ever.
El Cruce, at the entrance to Ardales, has cafés serving its famous fried eggs, spring onions and local sausages. But if you are prone to car sickness, beware. This stop comes before the last stretch of winding road.
This is simply the price freshwater bathers have to pay, as there is no easily accessible natural pool or river - at least not in the province of Malaga.
"He who wants to catch fish must not mind getting wet," as the saying goes. This is not to be taken literally, because the few little fish that swim in the Turón are not worth the bother.
But, in order to get to one of the best natural pools in the province of Malaga, you do have to travel a long way.
It isn't too difficult to park in the roads closest to the access point for the river. After the winding roads, there is still a long walk before reaching the pool. Here, there are two options. One path is a wide dirt track along a section of the Gran Senda de Málaga, where cars cannot be driven. This used to be allowed but is now strictly forbidden. With this new rule, the Presa del Dique is much less crowded than it was in previous summers but it also means the first swim for hikers is a dusty one.
The route runs to the left of the Turón and is the sunniest path, which can be more challenging at the height of summer. But it is also the one which leads most directly to this pool, and others in the Turón.
The other option is an accessible, barrier-free route named after Manolo El Cantaor, which runs to the right of the river.
The route is flat and shady, but does not officially go as far as the Presa del Dique. Everything that is comfortable about the path ends before it reaches the pool and bathers are then faced with a more difficult walk along the riverbank. Fortunately, after a few metres, the jets of water falling into the picturesque pool become visible.
What was once built as a dam to contain the force of the river Turón has turned into a natural pool. It has been this way for many years, although it is true that there is an artificial pool much closer to home for residents of El Burgo, which is also less frequented by visitors coming in search of a haven of peace in the Sierra de las Nieves national park.
At the Presa del Dique there is no sandy beach to sunbathe on - nor is this something that most bathers who come here are in search of.
There are those who, irresponsibly, jump into the pool from the top of the dam.
"It's not that cold," says one bather. "Not that cold," agrees another. There are no waves here. Instead, there is a pool of still, almost crystal-clear water which offers a sense of serenity, especially on weekdays and before midday.
Banning cars along the dirt track has led to a pleasant reduction in the number of bathers. The tourist office in El Burgo has said "the overcrowding of the past is no longer so prevalent".
The office receives a number of enquiries about the conditions of the river, and this pool in particular, from people who do not want to make such a long journey for nothing. "The day the pool at the dam has no water, then we'll have to worry," they reply.
There is plenty more to see and do at El Burgo in the summer months. From savouring tapas at an affordable price to discovering the parts of its ancient fortress which today serve as the walls of its whitewashed houses.
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