Wine myths in the cinema
Not holding the glass by the bowl won't spoil the experience - our hand's heat makes negligible difference and can even help open up a too-cold white, writes columnist A.J. Linn
Andrew J. Linn
Malaga
Viernes, 26 de septiembre 2025, 02:00
To what extent do fictional creations influence our opinions about wine? The US film Sideways set the stage for much of today's wine lore, with the principal character embodying the opinionated aesthete who hides his insecurities behind rigid certainties. His on-screen dismissal of Merlot damaged the grape's American reputation for years, while his devotion to Pinot encouraged multiple overripe Californian bottlings.
The film illustrates how strongly such opinions filter into broader culture - creating myths that need busting.
Among the plethora of these, a prize cliché is 'ABC': Anything But Chardonnay.' In truth, Chardonnay is one of the world's most versatile grapes, capable of elegance and scope, and dismissing it just because it happens to be Chardonnay makes little sense.
Wine of the week
-
La Rellanilla 2023 From the Perelada cava group that also makes Viña Salceda, this bodega is notable for its classical Riojas. Matured on its lees for six months in concrete vats, it has an unusual dark tinge with an agreeable nose. Around 16 euros.
Moving from the grape to the vessel, not holding the glass by the bowl won't spoil the experience - our hand's heat makes negligible difference and can even help open up a too-cold white.
The maxim that red wine must be served at room temperature is also dubious; slightly chilled reds can be delightful, especially in hot climates.
Moments after one character announces how little he cares, another cracks open a bottle of Pinot Noir and asks, “How come it's white?” The reply points to why we're stuck toting around received opinions like his: “Oh, Jesus. Don't ask questions like that in wine country. People will think you're some kind of amateur, OK?”