Restaurante Raíces Istán, traditional cuisine brought up to date

Raíces is a family restaurant in the broadest sense of the word, as its owner and head chef, José Miguel Marín, Carmen, his partner in the dining room; Salvador Marín, also in the kitchen and the aunt of both brothers, Maria Jesús Marín, also in the dining room, all work together in the same space. José Miguel's cuisine is intimately and emotionally linked to Istán and to this region of Malaga. The professional career of this chef from Malaga has taken him through various establishments such as Anantara Villapadierna, El Lodge in Sierra Nevada and for many years with David Olivas in Back almost from the beginning of this establishment in Marbella. The arrival of Raíces in Istán has meant not only a gastronomic enhancement of this town, but also a kind of culinary declaration of the products that have defined the traditional cuisine of this part of the province.

The menu prepared by José Miguel at Raíces is based on popular Andalusian cuisine, creatively updated and fused with modern cooking techniques. Most of the dishes bear the unquestionable stamp of this young chef, whose creativity respects the flavours and essence of the products that make up each of these dishes.

On the menu, which is far from static, there is a mixture of dishes and suggestions such as a gazpacho acevichado or a new version of the classic gazpachuelo from Malaga, together with other dishes where modern roasting or cooking techniques are surprising for the complexity of their preparation and the final texture, especially in those dishes that come from game cooking. Game cuisine is one of the great proposals at Raíces, along with the casquería (offal) that in autumn returns to dazzle the most daring palates. The best thing to do is to let yourself be advised by Carmen or María Jesús, although on a first visit to this restaurant, my recommendation is that you should not miss any of these suggestions, the three anchovy toast, the comforting and hearty chicken and mushroom consommé or the wild boar peas. Raíces' cuisine is strongly committed to local products, just as in its wine list we will find many references of wines that are part of Sabor a Málaga. Raíces should be an example for many young chefs.

Gazpacho acevichado

A dish where the colour and the acidic or avigrade touch of the ceviche rule. Very smooth in the mouth, where the touch of raw shrimp or prawns add salinity together with roe that only stands out for its colour.

Jarrete de chivo (goat kid shank)

This dish, which won a prize in the VI Concurso del Chivo Lechal Malagueño, is a real find due to its creaminess provided by the risotto of wheat paste and the perfect point of cooking of the shank itself.

Tortilla de patatas y callos de bacalao

Magnificent and creative combination of a very undercooked potato omelette and very good quality cod tripe. The texture in the mouth of this omelette stands out for its mellowness.

Torrija de aguacate y miel (avocado and honey torrija)

The desserts stand out for being very original, such as this avocado torrija with honey from Istán. A creative vindication of a local product that José Miguel highlights.