El Higuerón: traditional cuisine
Quality products, well-executed dishes and a respect for tradition
Óscar Amores has returned to El Higuerón and for more than a year now he has once again been responsible for everything that is served from its kitchens. The menu of this restaurant has been taking well thought-out steps to offer the traditional Asturian cuisine that has always characterised it, and also to integrate updated dishes in line with the current demands of the diner. However, in part, El Higuerón has lost a little of the philosophy it has always had since its beginnings. It is enough to take a look at its opening hours to realise that the traditional breakfasts have disappeared and there is also a day of the week when it closes, something that in other times was unthinkable. But as important as these changes are, the latest refurbishment of the restaurant has given more importance to the bar than to the restaurant itself, and this is one of the challenges that both Óscar and the new manager, Alberto Jiménez, must gradually and quietly tackle.
El Higuerón
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Address: A-7, exit 1008. Fuengirola
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Telephone: 952 119 163.
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Closed: Mondays.
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Web: elhigueron.com
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Prices:
Tomato salad: 18€. Fabada asturiana: 26€. Pixin: 43€ -
Valuation: Kitchen: 7.5. Dining room: 7. Wine list: 7. Rating: 7.5 / 10
The difference is important: a restaurant should always offer something more than the bar menu, especially at this establishment. There are signature dishes that made El Higuerón's reputation - the fabada asturiana (bean stew with black sausage, pancetta and chorizo), baked monkfish, fabes con almejas (white beans with clams), spider crab pie and Cabrales pâté - and these should take pride of place on the restaurant menu. The bar, on the other hand, should serve lighter, simpler fare suited to diners who want a quicker lunch or dinner.
My last visit to this restaurant, just a couple of weeks ago, was thoroughly satisfying. It reminded me of El Higuerón from years past, when the quality of ingredients and flavour were unbeatable. I enjoyed the gildas (a classic Basque pintxo (small snack or tapa)), which were generous in both size and taste, and a potato omelette whose juiciness was unquestionable. What really stood out were the restaurant's classic dishes alongside some of Óscar's new additions, which bring a welcome lightness and relaxed feel to the table. The service has also improved considerably - it's both professional and youthful. The wine list is currently being updated, which is much needed.
Tomato and smoked tuna belly salad
Two concepts are fundamental if you want to obtain a top dish: freshness and flavour. This is what is perceived in every mouthful, a very tasty tomato and very balanced tuna fillets.
Free range chicken and rice
This rice dish is made with a flavourful stock of poultry bones and vegetables, topped with shredded chicken. Using quality Molino Roca rice is a good start, but it's not enough on its own - you need to watch the cooking carefully to get the texture just right and avoid leaving it undercooked.
Tuna Tartar with egg
Óscar once again expresses his skill in choosing a high quality tuna loin and giving it the exact cut to make it stand out for its flavour. The fried egg is in charge of balancing the texture.
Turbot baked in the oven
Despite being a touch too oily with slightly overcooked garlic, this is one of the menu's standout dishes. The turbot is generous in size, perfectly juicy from the oven, and the fish itself is excellent quality and very fresh.
