Five Malaga soups to get you through the winter and where to try them

In Malaga, winter does not always come with a scarf, but it does come with a spoon. When the cold weather arrives, the province brings out its best repertoire: soups born from the seafaring, yesterday's bread and the olive oil that here acts as a nexus of union. These are not "the best", because that would be an impossible competition; these are just five soups that are perfect to enjoy in Malaga in the cold season, each with its own character and accent.

Gazpachuelo is a delicious rarity: a hot soup bound with mayonnaise, which is added with care so that it does not curdle. Traditionally a humble meal for fishermen and homes with small larders, today it is an emblem of Malaga's cuisine. It usually has potatoes and, depending on the establishment, rice, clams, prawns or rosada: the sea in ladle format. To try it in the city, you can follow a fairly reliable "route": El Rincón de la Catedral, Mesón Mariano, Araboka and Nerva are among the recommended classics.

The pintarroja, a small shark that is very popular on the coast, is the star of a spicy broth: light, fragrant, with that hint of spice and vinegar or lemon that awakens the palate. It is one of those dishes that rejuvenates the body. It was a typical dish in the taverns of the perchel, where clams were added to add flavour. If you want to go for it, there is a list of places in Malaga where they serve it, such as CB23, El Navío and Zamarrilla 23.

Sopa perota comes from Álora, in the Guadalhorce Valley, and is proof that with bread, vegetables and oil you can build a monument. It contains bread, tomato, pepper, garlic, onion and, depending on the version, potato or asparagus; sometimes it is topped with grapes or oranges, as a nod to the past. It was born as a country dish, energetic and economical, and today it travels from homes to restaurants to recover its essence. To eat it, make a note of names such as Restaurante Los Caballos (Álora) or La Garganta (Caminito del Rey area), as well as other local restaurants.

In Monda, in the Sierra de las Nieves, sopa mondeña is so serious that it has its own public holiday. It is a recipe dating back to the 19th century, designed for farm workers: country bread, fried tomato and pepper, garlic, olive oil... and the egg as a finishing touch. The result is a thick, comforting soup that is not drunk, but eaten. To try it at source, in the village itself there are options such as Comidas Bar de la Rubia and Bar Restaurante Luna.

Garlic soup is the elegance of minimalism: garlic, bread, paprika, oil, water and broth... and the miracle of texture. It is an ancient winter soup, of brazier and embers, which fed generations with what was available. The beauty is that it has also found its way into contemporary Malaga: the restaurant Kaleja (Dani Carnero) claims it in a creative way, and on the more traditional side it can be found in places where the 'cuchareo serrano' is served, such as Ventorrillo Patascortas (Casabermeja), where it is treated as part of its heritage.