El Cabra: flavours of Malaga

There was a time when El Cabra, a beachfront chiringuito in Malaga’s Pedregalejo district, seemed to be losing its way.

After a period where both the quality of the ingredients and the standard of the cooking began to falter, the restaurant has now enjoyed a return to form.

You could say that a lifeline has been thrown to the beacfront eatery after its acquisition by the Grupo Ovidio,. Now many of its past clientelle would agree - the restaurant has rediscovered the charm that once made it a landmark. It is once again a premier destination for those seeking authentic Mediterranean seafood to be enjoyed by the water’s edge.

This new chapter, overseen by the Rosado family, is not merely a reopening but a sophisticated evolution. While Miguel and José Rosado manage the group’s wider portfolio, brother Carlos Rosado has taken the helm of the kitchen and dining room. Their mission is clear: to preserve the soul of El Cabra while elevating the experience for a modern audience. This is most evident in the addition of a spectacular wine cellar, boasting over a hundred references designed to satisfy the most discerning palates.

Among El Cabra's most groundbreaking bets is the meat, a conservation and maturation chamber is in view of the client on his arrival at the restaurant. Rubia gallega (Galician beef), goat from Canillas, lamb and Iberian pork, are some of the meats on the menu. Another display case, this one of fish and seafood, speaks of the freshness of the product.

However, El Cabra would not be El Cabra without the possibility of having some espetos or fried fish and this, together with the seafood, will continue to be one of the most essential parts of this house. The frying of the fish, which are offered according to market availability, deserves a special mention. The frying of the different parts of the gallineta (scorpion fish) that I had the opportunity to try, as well as the freshness and size of the small clams, were very well done.

The head chef should pay more attention to the rice dishes, another strong point of the menu, as the use of a bomba type rice requires more cooking time so that the grain is less al dente and acquires more flavour. The seafood stews from Malaga that are prepared here are very well done and end up being a tribute to the cuisine of a lifetime.

With the Rosado family, El Cabra has once again become one of the benchmarks of Malaga's seafront cuisine.

Fried gallineta (scorpion fish)

Fried fish, big or small, like this gallineta, is an art in itself. El Cabra has brought back good frying, done with clean oil and at the right temperature. These fish are ideal for sharing.

Rice with cigalas

A classic langoustine rice dish that stands out precisely because of the cooking point of the seafood and the intense flavour of the stock used to prepare the rice. The rice reached the table with about five minutes of cooking time remaining.

Saffron stew with noodles

Saffron coloured stews are an integral part of Malaga's seafood cuisine. This spoon dish, where fish and prawns are the main ingredients, is unbeatable. .

Rubia gallega steak

Although this restaurant is located right on the beach, beef is a must, as is the family's other emblematic establishment, Asador Ovidio. A good cut cooked over charcoals.