Why we love Chinese food

'Let's go for a Chinese" does not have the same ring about it as the well-established "Let's go for an Indian". Peek into the average kitchen cupboard and you'll almost certainly spot a bottle of soy sauce lurking. It may feel modern, but this savoury staple has been quietly splashing around our kitchens since Victorian times. Mrs Beeton was already drizzling it into recipes in the 1860s, long before most Brits could identify a spring roll.

Chinese food's slow but unstoppable rise owes more to ships and sailors then to woks. Early Chinese communities formed around shipping ports, bringing with them ingredients, know-how and a talent for using whatever was available. Tinned bamboo shoots, bottled soy and bean sprouts began their journey from niche imports to everyday shopping items, exploited by brands that made these flavours accessible and affordable.

Then came the great British takeaway. Cantonese cooks adapted their food to local tastes, creating the tasty glossy sauces and satisfying dishes we now consider classics. By the 1970s, Chinese food had ambitions beyond the takeaway counter. Smart restaurants appeared, Michelin stars were earned and cookbooks by figures like Ken Hom invited us to stir-fry with confidence. Suddenly, fried rice and crispy 'seaweed' were weeknight regulars.

More recently, our appetite has grown bolder, embracing fiery Sichuan dishes, hand-pulled noodles and bubble tea. Behind every bottle of soy sauce is a tale of migration, resilience and delicious adaptation. And frankly, our dinners are much better for it.