Pass the port

Port may be out of fashion with today's low-ABV (alcohol by volume) crowd, but winemakers in Portugal's Douro Valley are far from despairing. The nearly 800-million-euro global Port market, although down from 8.7m cases in 2013 to 7.3m in 2023, is projected to grow by 5.3% annually to 2030. Producers are banking on premiumisation, tourism and mixology to steer the fortified classic into a new era.

"Port is ready for a resurgence," says one of the region's leading traders. Aged and wood-matured Ports are thriving as consumers embrace craftsmanship and exclusivity. Premium Port already represents half of total value sales, though the shift upmarket has squeezed lower-end volumes. The growing craft cocktail scene, where quality ingredients matter, is providing fresh opportunities for port to shine - either mixed or served neat.

George Sandeman, of Sogrape, hopes Port will move beyond Christmas nostalgia to become "something people make a nice Sangria with in summer". He and other producers see its future as cyclical: after potential short-term decline, a long-term recovery seems likely.

Kit Weaver of Quinta de la Rosa believes Port's mixology crossover and the "softly softly marketing" of Portuguese food and culture will sustain growth. Another spokesperson agrees, crediting tourism - up 6.7% in 2024 - for expanding Port's reach through innovative experiences such as tastings in stylish cellars.

Others remain cautious: "It's difficult when the market is trending against fortified and red wines." The advice is simple - focus on quality - and the next time you find yourself at an after-dinner Port session, remember the decanter is always passed from left to right.