How it's done
In Spain, gastronomic travellers routinely rank the Basque Country first on their itinerary, while Andalucía lags behind. If the south wants to rise, it might study the example of Mina in Bilbao, says columnist Andrew J. Linn
Andrew J. Linn
Friday, 6 March 2026, 10:59
Opening a restaurant is the ultimate fantasy for many serious food lovers. Like turning any cherished hobby into a livelihood, the dream peaks on opening night. Yet beyond passion and a shelf of How-to manuals lies a harsher truth: location matters. In Spain, gastronomic travellers routinely rank the Basque Country first on their itinerary, while Andalucía lags behind. If the south wants to rise, it might study the example of Mina in Bilbao and its driving force, Lara Martín.
Co-founder and director of Mina, Martín has helped turn the restaurant into a benchmark of Euskadi's dining scene. Trained at the prestigious Luis Irizar school, she initially juggled multiple roles - cooking, managing and running the dining room. Over time, she concentrated on leadership and hospitality, shaping an experience that extends far beyond the plate.
Wine of the week
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Numanthia 2018 One of Spain's truly great red wines from a region many aficionados would not bother with. Toro is worth a visit and although the wines for many years were ignored by regular Rioja and Ribera drinkers, they have been quietly growing in popularity and prestige. Around 60 euros.
Her philosophy is disarmingly simple: local, seasonal produce; rigorous professionalism; and a warm, celebratory atmosphere. Internally, she leads like a coach, fostering collaboration and shared values. Externally, she serves as interpreter between kitchen and guest, translating the creativity of co-founder and chef Álvaro Garrido into something diners can fully appreciate. Garrido's technically precise, inventive tasting menus may win acclaim, but Martín ensures harmony between floor and stove.
Anticipating needs, solving problems and refining details, she elevates service into an art form. Inspired by figures such as Paco Torreblanca, Martín proves that culinary success depends as much on humanity and joy as on technique - a lesson Andalucía could profitably embrace.
