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From farm to table: soft cheeses akin to Brie and Camembert are also made in Malaga
Food and drink

From farm to table: soft cheeses akin to Brie and Camembert are also made in Malaga

From such an exceptional raw material as the milk of the Malaga goat breed, there are businesses, most of them family-run, that make cheeses that are as surprising as they are tasty

Javier Almellones

Friday, 13 September 2024, 14:59

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In addition to extra mature (curado), mature (semi-curado) and fresh (fresco) cheeses, many cheesemakers in Malaga, most of which specialise in goat's milk, have long been familiar with the production of soft-curd dairy products, a category that is more popular in countries such as France and Italy than in Spain.

Thanks to this, today it can be said that there are several cheesemakers, most of them belonging to the umbrella promotional brand of 'Sabor a Málaga' (taste of Malaga), that are capable of making cheeses along the lines of a Brie or Camembert, among many others. From such an exceptional raw material as the milk of the Malagüeña goat breed, there are businesses, most of them family-run, that have managed to make the most of that milk with cheeses that are as surprising as they are tasty. These are some of the most outstanding cheeses currently available in the province of Malaga:

  1. 1

    Zambra (naturally fermented, mature lactic cheese), by Flor Bermeja

Zambra cheese, from Flor Bermeja (Casabermeja).

This is one of the oldest soft cheeses on this list. Master cheesemaker Melania Pico has been making this atypical square-shaped cheese for years in the village of Casabermeja, which stands out for the dark grey colour that protects it. Its colour is due to the food-grade ash covered by a white bloom thanks to the presence of Penicillium Candidum (a 'mild mould' used to ripen and flavour cheeses like Brie). Cured for a minimum of 20 days, it has a creamy paste inside with a heterogeneous texture, totally blind (no eyes or bubbles on the cut surface) and bone-coloured. In addition to their mini rolls of goat cheese and other more innovative dairy products, Flor Bermeja also has a good range of traditional cheeses.

Where to buy it

  1. 2

    Pistachio heart, by Santa María del Cerro

Corazón de Pistachio cheese, from Santa María del Cerro (Villanueva de la Concepción).

This cheese has only been on the market for a year and has already won several awards, especially for its originality and innovative look. As its name suggests, a pistachio dough awaits the consumer in the centre with a touch of honey, which combines perfectly with the soft cheese, which has been matured for 15 months. It has an edible rind with white and grey moulds native to the area where this family business is located, Santa María del Cerro, a district of the town of Villanueva de la Concepción, south of El Torcal de Antequera. This cheese factory already has experience with other white cheeses, such as 'Tiznao' (a lactic curd cheese matured in charcoal), 'Azahar' (a Brie-type cheese) or 'Alegría' (a lactic curd cheese matured in spices).

Where to buy it

  1. 3

    La Tartaleta, by La Hortelana

Tartaleta cheese, from La Hortelana (Coín).

This cheese-making family has been committed to tradition for decades, but also to innovation. For this reason, in addition to the usual three levels of maturity in their hard cheeses made from the milk of Malagüeña goats or even some sheep's milk versions, every year they dare to experiment with making different types of cheese, including soft cheeses, which are very popular in the Malaga market. One of the best known is Tartaleta, a type of Camembert made with goat's milk with a dark, edible skin, already well-known to many of their customers. They have also been offering various types of lactic curds, which they christened 'yoghurt del Guadalhorce', and goat's milk curd. They also have a range of soft paste products known as lactic pyramids.

Where to buy it

  1. 4

    Goat briquette, by Cabraline

Briqueta de Cabra cheese, from Cabraline (Antequera).

It is difficult to single out just one cheese from the product range of this company, which is now based in Antequera, although it is the heir of Lact Argudo, which until just over a year ago was based in Campillos. Briqueta de cabra is just one of the various soft dairy products made at this cheese factory, under the tutelage of master cheesemaker Mateu Argudo, who has a clear devotion to these cheeses that have their roots especially in countries such as France and Italy. Thus, in addition to this one, they have others in this cheese format such as Timbal de Cabra, Tomino (ideal for grilling), Gris de Montaña, Pastura de Cabra and even a variety of Camembert. All their cheeses are made from Malagüeña goat's milk. Company headquarters are in Antequera in the same facilities as El Pastor del Torcal brand (in Antequera's business park), as both belong to the same business group.

Where to buy it

Other cheesemakers that also work with soft cheese are Lácteos Pastor del Valle in Alhaurín El Grande and La Cañada del Capitán in Cajiz (Vélez-Málaga), which produce their own Malaga goat cheese rolls, among other products.

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