Now is one of the best times of the year to enjoy the Serranía de Ronda's Genal valley

Javier Almellones

Serranía de Ronda

Friday, 25 October 2024, 17:41

The first ochre leaves appear on the ground or quietly fall from the chestnut trees. It is the silent prelude to the chromatic spectacle that lovers of the purely autumnal landscape have been awaiting, the Bosque de Cobre (copper forest). There are still a few weeks to go before it is in full bloom, green still rules in the dense chestnut forests of the Alto Genal, the upper part of this valley.

This area of the Serranía de Ronda, in which most of the villages have less than 500 inhabitants, is now preparing for an intense month in which visitors and locals alike can enjoy the traditional 'tostones' - the roasting of chestnuts, savour a typical, local rice dish made with rabbit or, for the more active, sign up for a sporting competition that is as demanding as it is dazzling along the set trails.

This last weekend of October marks the end of the harvest of the nut most closely associated with the landscape around here. Chestnuts have been picked up off the forest floor for weeks now, having shed their spiky shells. Some visitors persist in picking them up from the verges of the winding roads that connect these villages, but it is more profitable just to buy them in bags from the local corner shops, which will always be cheaper than those whisked away to the gourmet food shops.

Parauta, Pujerra and Igualeja form a 'Bermuda triangle' where you can just get lost in the best sense of the word. The first of them provides a hiking trail to be enjoyed any time of the year by the village's youngest visitors, the Bosque Encantado (enchanted forest). In fact, it is an outstanding section of the longer hiking trail that links Parauta with Cartajima.

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In the first part of the route the magic has been provided by the sculptor Diego Guerrero, who has filled the chestnut grove closest to the village centre with woodland creatures and characters from different civilisations and fiction. Fairies, owls and even a frog that could well become a prince are some of the beings that inhabit this place. It is a simple route to walk, with only a slight uphill on the way back, but very bearable for most visitors. In the final days of October, the greenery does battle with autumn hues.

Meanwhile in Pujerra they are getting ready for one of their main events of the year. After the chestnut harvest it is time to enjoy the flavour of this dried fruit with the traditional tostones, roasted chestnuts washed down with a glass of mistela, a very local, traditional, alcoholic tipple.

For over 20 years now Pujerra has been giving prominence to the chestnut with its very own festival. The chestnut festival is also associated with the religious celebration of the Virgin of Fatima. Friday 1 November is the day to enjoy the flavours of the chestnut in all its forms and Sunday 3 November is the day when a mass and procession are held in honour of the patron saint. There is a complete hiatus on the Saturday in between because, in this village, they have the utmost respect for the 'day of the dead'.

In the neighbouring village of Igualeja the roasting of chestnuts is brought forward to the evening of 31 October. It will be a very special evening in the village's main square (Plaza de Andalucía) where, as well as sampling roasted chestnuts and sweets, there will be no shortage of scary Halloween costumes.

In the Genal valley there is no shortage of other festivals where both types of traditions, the indigenous tradition of the tostón and the Anglo-Saxon tradition of Halloween, simply merge. You only have to visit villages like Genalguacil, Cartajima or Faraján between the last day of October and the 3rd of November.

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These events are the gastronomic prelude to the appearance of the Bosque de Cobre, which usually shows up from the second week of November onwards. On that second Saturday, the Fiesta del Conejo (yes, it's a rabbit festival) will be held where, in addition to tasting the local rice dish made with rabbit meat, you can also take the opportunity to enjoy one of the hiking trails.

Then the following week, another village in the valley, Jubrique, will be in charge of the kitchen, celebrating its culinary skills dedicated to the chestnut, a very versatile ingredient in today's cuisine.

In addition to these attractions, the Gran Vuelta Valle del Genal, a challenge even for the most indefatigable trail runners, will be held between 8 and 10 November and 16 November.

Source of the Genal river. This beauty spot, a pretty spring located at the entrance to Igualeja, is one of the best known in this area. After the recent rains it has recovered a good part of its streaming waters.

Where: At the entrance to Igualeja.

Bosque Encantado (enchanted forest) . In the last two years it has become a great attraction for visitors to Parauta and the Genal valley. Sculptor Diego Guerrero has filled a section of the hiking trail that links Parauta with Cartajima with characters typical of the forests in children's books.

Where: From the village of Parauta along a dirt track.

Castaño Abuelo (grandfather chestnut). In the large chestnut grove between Igualeja, Parauta and Pujerra, there are specimens of great beauty with many years of life. In the last of the three villages, there is one that is easy to see and identify, which has been christened "Castaño Abuelo" (grandfather chestnut tree) due to its supposed longevity.

Where: 400 metres from Pujerra walking from Calle Alta.

Aldea Azul (blue village). In the upper Genal you can visit unique villages like Júzcar, which today still stands out for its light blue colour and is known as 'Aldea Azul' (blue village). It has places especially designed for children to play and explore.

Where: Between Cartajima and Faraján.

Bodega del Bandolero. In this restaurant, which is part of the Bandolero hotel, you can find a menu that is committed to quality. At the culinary helm is Iván Sastre, known as the 'chestnut chef', as he has included the chestnut as a key feature of his cuisine, be that in sauces, rice dishes or desserts. In addition, this restaurant's repertoire includes everything from suckling pig supreme, which is cooked at a low temperature and is one of the house specialities, to venison done Wellington style or chicken in 'pepitoria' (a centuries-old recipe for a sauce made with meat juices, the yolk of hard-boiled eggs and almonds as the principal ingredients). There is also usually leg of lamb and beef from Avila.

Where: Avenida del Havaral, 43, 29462 Júzcar. Telephone: 640 103 494. www.hotelbandolero.es

El Anafe. In the heart of the village of Parauta, this is one of the oldest establishments in the Alto Genal. In addition to a carefully chosen décor with many ethnographic items displayed, there is a menu with dishes ideal for autumn, such as meat with chestnut sauce, stewed venison or wild boar with mushroom sauce, among other options. It has a small terrace and two floors inside, where you can breathe the rustic style typical of these villages in the Serranía de Ronda

Where: Calle Calvario, 1, 29451 Parauta. Telephone: 952 181 035.

Los Castaños. This Cartajima accommodation has half a dozen comfortable and colourful rooms, equipped with everything you need to enjoy a peaceful stay, regardless of the length of stay. In addition to breakfast, the accommodation offers a la carte dinners, as long as you book in advance.

Where: Calle Iglesia, 40, 29452. Phone 952 180 778. www.loscastanos.com