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Almudena Nogués
Malaga
Monday, 16 September 2024, 10:15
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Her name is Rosa. She is 79 years old and has spent most of her life glued to a needle. On Friday 13 September, she did not parade down Calle Larios. Her name was not on the list of the designers who were the stars of Friday night's show, but she indeed played a very important role.
Her meticulous embroidery - although it went unnoticed by the public - enhanced each of the 20 dresses presented by Susana Hidalgo from Malaga, who was honoured in this year's catwalk with the Alfiler de Oro (Golden Pin). Rosa (her mother) has been her driving force and inspiration all these years. And what better way to pay tribute to her than by naming her most special collection after her: the one she exhibited on Friday along Malaga's most-famous street.
Rosa embodies precisely the philosophy that has been the backbone of Pasarela Larios since its beginnings 13 years ago: A commitment to the most artisanal and pure fashion. That meticulous work that, stitch by stitch, creates unique haute couture dresses is called 'slow fashion', which is veering away from excessive production and excessive consumption of clothes.
On Friday night, six local designers brought their creations to what is the longest open-air blue carpet in Europe, of more than 350 metres. Alongside them were other Andalusian designers (such as Lucía Cano from Jaén with her impeccable bridal designs or Pepitina Ruiz with her striking art in silk) as well as designers from Morocco and Portugal. However, this year did not feature Malaga designers Montesco or Ángel Palazuelos, who have been part of the catwalk since its beginnings 13 years ago.
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At the foot of Calle Larios, more than 200 professionals involved, 100 models and more than 15,000 guests showed why Malaga is a fashionable destination. However, there was an unfortunate technical issue which prevented the public from hearing the explanations of the event's presenter.
At 8.20pm, designer Juan Carlos Armas, from Tenerife, opened the event. Feathered hems, skirts with tulle flounces and designs studded with rhinestones were the focus of his 'Memories' collection, in which, as its designer explained, each piece tells a story, "each detail reveals a secret that transports us to the people who have left us their mark and their mastery". The dresses were aimed at a very feminine, sophisticated and self-confident woman, a common tone last night on a catwalk that encouraged female empowerment.
Jesús Segado, from Malaga, a key player in this event since its beginnings and one of the big names in its line-up, took over the baton on Calle Larios. On this occasion, he showed a dozen of the most iconic designs of his career since 2012. There was no shortage of his now iconic skirts with pockets, his coats-suits with capes or his knitwear with appliqués. Craftsmanship elevated to the category of art in a masterful exercise in attention to detail. Behind him, Btissam Dahane Couture (with his colourful kaftans from Morocco - the first of them in green and purple in a clear nod to Malaga) and Antonia García Galiano from Alhaurin. The latter surprised with an elegant line of architectural cut and very structured fabrics, as well as dresses for brides and guests created "to flatter the female silhouette to the maximum".
And after Galiano, was the colour that dominated the entire Kaba Fashion show, one of the most commercial and wearable of the night. Among his designs, totally transparent lace skirts - one of the indisputable trends of this season - were accompanied by bodysuits and maxi belts.
But if there was a protagonist on Friday night at the Pasarela Larios, it was, on her own merits, designer Belinda Jokoth. As on other occasions, the Portuguese designer was the only one who walked the 350 metres of blue carpet greeting the public between dances and gestures of gratitude and the audience responded with a standing ovation.
Completing the programme of the opening day were the casual garments of Hard Rock Café - although many did not understand their inclusion in the big day of local haute couture - and the collections of Inma de la Riva (with her peculiar vision of Sense and Sensibility) and Teressa Ninú (with eight bridal designs inspired by flamenco tribute to monuments of the province such as the Cathedral, Alcazaba and Gibralfaro,).
The finishing touch was provided by local fashion brand Moncho Heredia (with one of the most colourful shows of the night, with touches of coral and vibrant metallic sparkles), Pepitina Ruiz and Lucía Cano. Couturier Romeo Couture was unable to attend the fashion show, according to the organisers, due to problems with his visa from Morocco.
In parallel to the 13 fashion collections, the Pasarela Larios - an event organised by Nueva Moda Producciones together with Malaga city council and Unicaja Foundation as the main sponsor - hosted the fourth annual Maribel Yébenes Award for the best models. The award created in 2018 by the beauty and aesthetic medicine firm went to Patricia Pérez and Ricardo Cruz.
After the opening night on Friday, Saturday 14 September featured some of the main local brands and Ágatha Ruiz de la Prada, a regular at the event. The catwalk opened with a parade of pieces by masters of design from the Museo del Automóvil y la Moda de Malaga and its valuable private collection, which debuted this year on Calle Larios. After them was Ukrainian designer Vel Yurchenko - with By Vel - , international textile group Bestseller and the 'New Fashion Talent 2024' competition.
The line-up was completed by Malaga-born Julio Enrique Ávila (Ferrucho), Cala, swimwear brand BananaMoon, Livia Monte-Carlo, the flamenco fashion of José Galvañ and the tailoring and ceremony of Félix Ramiro. There was also a parade of women from the AECC Spanish association against cancer dressed by Jesús Segado from Malaga.
The Diputación de Málaga - through its promotional brand Malaga de Moda - once again gave a dozen new talents the opportunity to present their designs. The New Fashion Talent 2024 competition featured Azahara Crisóstomo Medina, Carmen Torres, Florencia Diambri, José Antonio Velázquez, Laura María Álvarez, Leo Bassa, María José Perujo, Raúl Doña Gómez, Rocío González, Rosario García, Samuel Reyes and Sergio Rodríguez.
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