Manilva: A day at Los Toros, the charming cove on the road to Cadiz

Despite its name, no bullfights have been held on this sandy cove on the western Costa del Sol. The beach of Los Toros gets its name from the royal cattle track which allegedly used to run between Los Barrios and Estepona.

Located in Manilva, this is one of Malaga province's westernmost beaches, lying just before the border with the province of Cadiz.

Los Toros, however, does not have the same fine, light sand which so many beaches in Cadiz and Huelva boast. Here, beachgoers are faced with dark sand which tends to stick more easily to the skin. This isn't handy when it comes to leaving the beach - it's as if the beach itself was asking visitors to stay longer.

Next to Los Toros is the beach of Punta Chullera, the last of Malaga's beaches before Cadiz province. But Punta Chullera is small and does not have so much as a chiringuito to enjoy an 'espeto malagueño' (grilled sardine skewer).

Purists say that the sardines cooked in this way can only be found, in their most traditional form, between Nerja and Manilva. The sea breeze and the protection offered by the mountains behind the coastline, according to this theory, are fundamental elements for cooking the 'espeto' to perfection, so that it turns out neither dry nor burnt. Too much or too little wind would make it impossible to keep alive the constant flame that any good 'espeto' requires.

It is therefore the Chiringuito Dieguichi, located on Los Toros, which is the westernmost beach restaurant in Malaga province, the last to be able to cook 'espetos' the 'proper' way - according to this theory, at least.

The reality is that the first chiringuitos when we continue along the coast into Cadiz also sell sardine 'espetos'. Does the easterly breeze really understand provincial borders?

Beyond its 'espetos', Chiringuito Dieguichi also has on offer everything from 'pescaíto frito' (small fried fish) to 'espetos de carabineros' (shrimp skewers).

Dieguichi is aware that there are no other chiringuitos nearby. This is perhaps why they have such a varied cocktail menu - ideal for a summer afternoon, especially if you have rented one of the sun loungers just a few metres away. From mojitos to daiquiris to margaritas, there is plenty of choice. There are even several nonalcoholic options for designated drivers.

But not all beachgoers come here for the chiringuito. Many head down to Los Toros for its clear waters and rocky surroundings, which offer some protection from the breeze. However, even here, the strong land and easterly winds can never be fully avoided.

What makes Los Toros special is that its coastal landscape is unique in comparison with other parts of the Costa del Sol. On a clear day, the Rock of Gibraltar can be made out in the distance, as well as the mountain formations of the Hacho de Ceuta, all the way on the other side of the Strait.

Beachgoers here usually spend the whole day at Los Toros, because, though it is an inviting beach to visit, it is not particularly easily accessible.

Those travelling from Malaga or other towns on the Costa del Sol have to drive along the A-7 until they momentarily pass through the province of Cadiz, if just for a matter of seconds.

They must then head towards Punta Chullera, before taking an easy-to-miss exit which leads to the Los Toros car park. At the height of summer, this can get busy.

Once parked, the beach is only about 300 metres away, and accessible via steps.