Fishing season
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Friday, 2 May 2025
When May arrives, the coast of Cadiz smells of tradition, of fish fresh from the sea, in particular, tuna. As has been customary at this time for three thousand years, Cadiz fishermen take advantage of the passage of wild tuna through the Strait of Gibraltar to create a labyrinth of nets, the secret of which only the artisans of the sea know, and which is a deadly trap for the large specimens that cross the waters of Cadiz towards the Mediterranean Sea in search of warmer waters where they can spawn.
Almadrabas, the spectacular traditional fishing technique that dates back to the Phoenicians, dot the coast from Conil to Tarifa, kicking off a time full of festivals and culinary events in several coastal towns along the La Janda coast and in the Campo de Gibraltar region.
Zahara de los Atunes, Barbate, Conil de la Frontera, and Tarifa lavishly celebrate the arrival of wild tuna to their municipalities: from fairs to tapas tours and gastronomic weeks.
A whole host of events honour one of their greatest delicacies, which has undoubtedly become a true draw for tourists, not only domestically but also from all over the world. The fact that Cadiz has a taste for tuna is nothing new, as this fish has been linked to the province since prehistoric times, reflected in coins, watchtowers, language and even the work of Cervantes.
Barbate is the first province to open its doors to those who come to taste this delicacy. It does so this week with the 17th tapas route, which is part of the events scheduled for ‘gastronomic week’, which began on 23 April. On this occasion, more than thirty bars and restaurants in the municipality are participating. Both the most renowned and the smallest establishments will showcase the most original tapas based on this product. From Wednesday 30 April to Sunday 4 May, there will also be live cooking events hosted by the restaurants El Campero, Jarana, Bache Padre, Peña El Atún, Peña El Cartucho, 6 grifos, Casa Paco Amaya, La Bonita de Tarifa, Zalistre, Tapería Hostal, El Retinto Tapas, La Rokita, and the Hotel Gastronómico La Breña.
On 2 and 3 May, attendees will be able to learn about the ronqueo (the traditional way of cutting up a tuna). The process will take place in the tent set up at the Puerto Pesquero fish market at 11am.
Festivals are also held in Zahara in honour of this delicacy. Here, the events will take place from 13 to 18 May, which is when the 15th tuna route is celebrated. An event created by the Zahara de los Atunes merchants’ association (Acoza) to promote Zahara's cuisine, it is becoming increasingly popular with visitors each year. On this occasion, chefs Ángel León and Juan Ochoa will be in charge of kicking off this eagerly awaited festival. Those who attend this event will be able to taste up to 49 tapas, which are the ones being entered this year in the competition to award the best tuna dish.
Coinciding with this tuna route, you can also see various traditional ronqueos, both in the tent set up at the Palacio de Pilas and at other points in the municipality, from Plaza del Atún to Plaza Tamarón and Paseo de Pradillo.
Conil is also preparing to welcome thousands of visitors, as its gastronomic route attracts more and more people each year, not only from the surrounding area, but also from all over Spain. The 28th instalment of this route will take place from 9 May to 9 June, with the participation of 28 bars and restaurants in the municipality.
On the opening day of this event, the route ‘Whispers of the Wind’ will be held, and various exhibitions will be open to the public in the La Chanca cultural centre, such as sculptures by the artist Juan Hueso and photography by Antonio González Caro, featuring images captured during the almadraba technique.
In addition, on 10 and 11 May, a foodie event will be held, featuring not only the traditional cutting up of large tuna in the Plaza de Santa Catalina, but also the charity sale of dishes competing in the innovative and traditional cuisine competition, which this year will benefit two local organisations, Acupa and Faem.
Also, the tuna route in Tarifa will be held from 29 May to 1 June. Tarifa is committed to offering its residents and visitors a rich culinary culture, with tuna as one of its greatest exponents.
This is the star month for bluefin tuna from a gastronomic point of view, but tuna culture is present in the province throughout the year.
The Atlanterra cave, also called the ‘cave of the orcas’, is a testimony to how, even in prehistoric times, its inhabitants knew that the passage of orcas through the Strait coincided with that of tuna (their prey).
The weather vane-shaped sculptures of tuna found in each of these fishing areas give an idea of the importance of tuna, a true tribute to the speciality and its culinary, historical, and cultural connection with the Cadiz coast.
The silhouette of the tuna is featured on the coats of arms of Zahara, Barbate, and Conil, and also appears on the coins minted in Cadiz, which gives an idea of the importance that tuna has always had in the history and economy of the province.
The origin of the word "cachondeo" (meaning joking or partying) is striking. One theory about the etymology of this word is that every time a tuna fishing trip was successful - due to the number of catches or because there were no accidents -a celebration would take place at dusk on the banks of the Cachón river.
The Cadiz coast is populated by numerous towers that, at the end of the 15th century, were intended to warn of Turkish and Berber piracy, but also to spot the passage of tuna through the Strait.
In addition to the old watchtowers, numerous weather vane-shaped sculptures are found in each of the Cadiz municipalities, a reminder that the economy of this coast continues to revolve around the delicacy of the sea.
The international commission for the conservation of Atlantic tunas (ICCAT) protects the almadraba technique as the most sustainable. Cadiz-based almadrabas are authorised to catch 1,292 tons of bluefin tuna this year.
After cutting up a tuna - called ronqueo locally - and using the chefs' imagination, very different dishes and flavours emerge.
Bars and restaurants compete well into summer to offer the most exquisite dishes from both traditional and innovative cuisine.
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