Business as usual for many foreign tourists in Valencia city: 'It is as if nothing has happened here'

The popular areas around La Lonja, Plaza de la Reina and Plaza de la Virgen are still full of international visitors, although there is a noticeable absence of local passers-by and hoteliers are reporting cancelled bookings

E. Rodríguez

Valencia

Monday, 4 November 2024, 14:41 | Updated 16:09h.

Walking around the La Lonja and Plaza de la Reina areas in Valencia city is like stepping through a portal into another dimension or parallel reality. Full restaurant and bar terraces, relaxed faces, leisurely conversations, unhurried strolls, waiters coming and going with their trays full of tapas of 'calamari' and 'patatas bravas'. It's an oasis seemingly far away from the catastrophe that is happening just a few kilometres away, on the other side of the new Turia riverbed.

Words in other languages reach my ears. Some I can identify, such as Italian and English, while I try to distinguish whether a group of young people are speaking Russian, Ukrainian or another eastern European language. On only two occasions did I hear Valencian and Spanish being spoken, which showed that the most touristy areas of the city were full of foreign visitors. This was to be expected. I also hear the rattling of suitcases. It is the music of the other Valencia, the tourist one, which continues to function despite the devastation of its neighbouring towns.

Elisa Fernández, manager of Escalones de la Lonja restaurant explains that business has hardly been affected due to the fact that most of its customers are foreigners. "First thing in the morning everything was at a standstill, which surprised me. But it didn't take long for things to start moving. It is, after all, a very touristy area and many of the visitors have no idea what is going on a few kilometres away," she said.

Although Elisa has not detected a drop in turnover these recent days, the catastrophe has had an impact on work. "We have two workers in Torrent, so they are cut off and another employee who, although he lives in Valencia, has family in Masanasa, so he asked for the day off to go and help", said the manager. She said of the tragedy, "It's horrible. We work here and we have no choice but to open, but we are devastated."

It has also had logistical consequences. "We have had problems with suppliers who could not get here because they come from devastated municipalities, as in the case of some who come from Utiel. I have solved it by going to the central market to buy some specific things, such as vegetables and fruit," Elisa explained.

Tragedy

On my route through the city's main tourist attractions, I stop to listen to a group of Spaniards. It is clear from the context that they are Valencians. And, yes, the topic of conversation revolved around the tragedy ravaging their neighbours. "They are walking for two hours to get water and milk. And on top of that, some donations are being resold while others take advantage to steal," said a man, standing with his bike while talking to others.

"Marlaska has just announced that they are sending more soldiers", says another, although his friend says that it's too late. All agree that the reinforcements are arriving late, very late.

They also talk about the management of the warnings and the wall that has saved the city from suffering the same fate as 67 years ago. "Thanks to the new Turia riverbed, the floods were stopped. It was built after the tragedy of '57", said a woman, who also stresses "how badly" the school where her children study has been affected. "We went for our children because we acted with common sense, even though the school didn't say anything. Those who are responsible have done a terrible job", they added.

The atmosphere in Plaza de la Virgen is less lively than usual for a public holiday, although the terraces are full and the Turia fountain projects its typical image of the edge acting as a park bench for dozens of people to sit on. Things feel normal, but there is also a small dose of sadness. The conversations around me, once again, are in other languages.

"it's as if nothing has happened here"

On my way to Plaza de la Reina I look to the right and see La Pappardella restaurant almost full. I approach. The conversations of the diners remind me that I am in international tourist territory. "In terms of atmosphere, it's as if nothing has happened here. But we've had a lot of reservations cancelled by people from the metropolitan area and Valencians in general," said Mario Di Felice, the restaurant's manager.

However, these cancellations have been covered by the reservations of tourists who have been forced to stay longer in Valencia due to cancellations of their return flights. "Some tourists want to know what's going on and ask me. Tourists are amazed when I tell them that just four kilometres away we have such devastation, but the truth is that the city looks like another world," says Di Felice, who is also experiencing the catastrophe at close quarters. "I live in Alaquàs, which has not been as badly affected as Aldaia. At least I can carry on with my work", he explained.

The large square that shelters the main entrance to the cathedral is full of light and life. As Mario said, it seems surreal that death and destruction can be found so close together. It is the other side of Valencia. At the other end of the square, looking towards Calle de la Paz, a pianist delights dozens of tourists who record him with their mobile phones. An image of an ordinary day in one of the most touristy areas of the city.

However, as one moves away from these popular spots, the air in Valencia begins to change. Terraces are half full and a symbiosis between normality and sadness. "In the whole morning we've had six tables. Under normal conditions everything would be full", said a worker at El Puesto, a bar located in Calle de Ribera, which also is missing two of its workers, cut off in Torrent.

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