On the water
If you don’t want to sit still on a beach in the south of Spain this summer, take to a kayak or canoe. It provides a completely different perspective of beaches and coves, and if you’re not on the coast, a river or a reservoir is just as refreshing
Fergal Macerlean
Costa del Sol
Tuesday, 11 July 2023, 10:38
One of the few energetic activities that can be enjoyed on even the hottest Andalusian summer’s day is kayaking. The motion creates a cooling breeze and the splashes of water on your skin are a delight as you see the region from a totally different perspective.
In summer the winds tend to be light too - another big advantage, especially if you are not used to the effort involved. With light winds comes a flat water surface which, on the sea, is also a big plus.
Given Andalucía’s climate you might be surprised that kayaking can be enjoyed on a number of rivers, such as the Guadalfeo in the Alpujarra, Granada province, or the Genil in Cordoba province. There are a number of specialist companies which provide tours.
However, for complete beginners it is best to start with a guided tour on the sea or inland water body. Thankfully you are spoilt for choice in Andalucía with many superb options on the Mediterranean that visit secluded coves and a number of excellent locations to choose from among the region’s lakes and reservoirs.
Below, three of the best options are outlined. For all of them make sure you protect yourself from the sun - the reflection from the water increases your exposure to the rays. Swimwear is a good idea, and even a light top if you burn easily. Waterproof sun cream is a must and a hat and sunglasses are recommended. And take a drink to keep hydrated. If you want to take your mobile phone for photos ask the kayak provider who should supply waterproof bags.
Burriana, Nerja to Maro-Cerro Gordo Natural Park
The easternmost Costa del Sol town of Nerja is the departure point for this enchanting trip along the surprisingly wild coastline that is protected as the Maro-Cerro Gordo Natural Park, as are the Mediterranean waters. Several companies offer guided kayaking tours from Nerja’s Burriana beach. Once signed up you will be given a double-bladed paddle to propel your kayak (canoes have a single-bladed paddle).
You pass a delightful, secluded, cove next to natural diving platforms before the coastline becomes more rugged and formidable. Limestone boulders lie half-submerged at the water’s edge by bamboo thickets. Above, on the steep slopes, farmers tend small vegetable patches with exquisite sea views. As you progress, passing several stony beaches, the slopes turn to cliffs which run most of the way to the headland of Cerro Gordo.
A three-hour tour will allow you time to reach one of the highlights on this stretch of coast - the big waterfall of Maro. Plunging 15 metres straight into the sea this is great fun to paddle around. The water issues from an underground source that comes from the famous Nerja Caves.
After being cooled by the spray it’s time to begin the return to Burriana beach where you will haul up beside Ayo’s restaurant, is a great place to enjoy a well-deserved paella.
Cabo de Gata, Almeria
The stark, sun-bleached, beauty of Spain’s south-easternmost tip is the setting for another adventure on the dazzlingly blue Mediterranean. Follow in the wake of pirates to discover the many treasures of this unique landscape, several of which can only be appreciated from the sea.
This corner of Almeria is also protected for its marine wildlife, geological importance, natural semi-desert character, flora, fauna and wild bird populations.
The Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park includes a 50-kilometre stretch of cliff-lined coast which remains largely untouched.
A guided kayak trip from the resort of San José is an experience and a half. Paddling away from San José beach one quickly enters a world where humans have had little impact over the centuries. The rugged coastline was used by smugglers to hide contraband as access to the many isolated coves was difficult from land, as it remains today.
Your tour may stop at one of these secret hideaways, such as Cueva del Tabaco (Tobacco Cave), which sits by Cala Higuera (Fig Cove). This cove is a popular swimming spot. You will see why as you cool off in the pristine waters.
Further on, there is another isolated beach at Cala Tomate (Tomato Cove) which is a wonderful place to soak up the atmosphere of this dramatic coast.
By the time you and your paddling partner - the kayaks are usually for two - return to San José your arms and shoulders will be well stretched.
Los Bermejales reservoir, Arenas del Rey, Granada
Dotted around Andalucía are numerous reservoirs many of which are ideal for kayaking. Due to the suspended silt they often have an attractive, opaque, aquamarine colour as does Los Bermejales reservoir. This is set in an open, tree-lined, landscape and sits close to the northern edge of the Tejeda, Alhama and Almijara Sierras Natural Park.
On a sunny day there is little better than kayaking lazily around the reservoir and drinking in the view. You can hire kayaks and sign up for a guided trip from a campsite at the northern edge of the reservoir called Camping Los Bermejales (campinglosbermejales.com). Kayak enthusiast Juan will make your trip a memorable one. He also runs nighttime kayak trips. These are not to be missed. At night the skies here are spectacularly dotted with stars as there is minimal light pollution given the distance from any towns or cities.
You will see shooting stars from your kayak with the only sounds being those from your paddle as it dips into the warm water. If at all possible you should coincide your trip with the Perseid meteor shower. These are most impressive around August 11, 12 and 13. This summer they peak right before a new moon so will be extra vibrant in the dark skies.