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Pablo Marinetto
Malaga
Monday, 30 September 2024, 10:53
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In the heart of Los Alcornocales natural park, right on the border between the provinces of Malaga and Cadiz, is one of those places that captivate with their beauty and are steeped in history. LaSauceda, an old, abandoned forestry settlement, now transformed into an outdoor recreational centre, offers an immersive experience for those seeking an intimate connection with nature and a journey back in time.
This abandoned hamlet, located in the municipality of Cortes de la Frontera, is encased in a natural setting that invites you to disconnect from urban life among crags and gorges, forests that seem enchanted and vestiges of a past full of stories, told and untold.
May is the most recommended month to visit this place, when spring dresses the ravines in an intense green thanks to the leafy foliage of the cork oaks and gall oaks that carpet the landscape, collecting the humidity that wafts in on the breezes that blow in from the Atlantic. However, it can be visited and enjoyed all year round.
Among the bushes, ferns and moss-covered rocks the air is filled with the scent of ash and wild olive trees, an ideal setting for hikers, who can walk along the various trails and paths and immerse themselves in the magical atmosphere of this tiny village.
La Sauceda is located at an altitude of about 1,000 metres, serving as the last lookout point in the western end of the Serranía de Ronda before dropping down to Campo de Gibraltar. The area is a haven for those who wish to enjoy the peace and quiet of nature, but it is also a place steeped in history, from the times of Andalusian banditry and smuggling to one of the darkest episodes of the Spanish Civil War.
La Sauceda has witnessed important historical events. During Spain's civil war last century, this village had a larger population than Cortes de la Frontera and became a refuge for many families fleeing Franco's repression, especially from the province of Cadiz and the countryside around Jerez (around 1,000).
Its rugged terrain was key to halting the advance of Franco's troops from the Strait of Gibraltar towards Seville and Madrid. However, when the Nationalists finally penetrated the area, firstly by bombing La Sauceda, then following through with a ground assault. It was a massacre. Today, near La Sauceda, in the Cortijo de El Marrufo, one of the largest mass graves in Spain was uncovered, the resting place of hundreds of people who were tortured and executed by Franco's troops. Around 30 of those bodies have been exhumed, identified and laid to rest in the small cemetery opposite the entrance to the hamlet.
Despite its turbulent past, today La Sauceda has been transformed into a place of reunion with nature. Since 1979 part of the old settlement has been rebuilt, offering visitors a place to spend the night in simple stone cottages that blend in with their surroundings.
The cottages allow you to immerse yourself in the wildlife, but be aware that there are only a few hours of sunlight per day, requiring visitors to be prepared to disconnect fully from technology and urban conveniences (no electricity in the cottages, no wi-fi).
Access to La Sauceda is best from Cortes de la Frontera. Drivers should head towards Puerto de Gáliz and, on reaching the Venta there, take the C-3331 road towards Jimena de la Frontera until they reach La Sauceda with signage to the outdoor recreation centre. This is a route that, from the very first moment, immerses the visitor in a unique natural environment.
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