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Alekk M. Saanders
Lagos
Friday, 6 September 2024, 13:53
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Out of all means of transport, the bus is considered to be one of the cheapest, although nowadays you can find flights and trains that compete with buses in terms of price. But if you want to get to Lagos, the most southwestern corner of neighbouring Portugal, the best, or rather the cheapest, way is by bus.
Surprisingly, there are as many as four buses from Malaga to Lagos during the day. A ticket to Lagos costs 20.49 euros on the website and the return journey can be as little as 13.99 euros. Keep in mind that buying a ticket at the bus station can cost twice as much.
It just so happened that my trip to Lagos started in… Lagos. Not everyone knows that the eastern Costa del Sol has its own Lagos, a village between the municipalities of Algarrobo and Torrox. However, it does not belong to either of them. Lagos is part of the municipality of Vélez-Málaga. The name translates from Spanish as 'lakes', although in this case it refers to a river of similar name that flows through the village into the sea.
The journey from Costa del Sol's Lagos to the bus station in Malaga takes about 30 minutes. The bus from Malaga to the Portuguese Lagos leaves at 8.15am and arrives in the resort at around 4pm (5pm in Spain).
After Malaga the first stop is in Marbella and then, almost approaching Gibraltar, the bus turns and follows the motorway towards Jerez de la Frontera. It is a long journey and the coaches have a toilet, however on the day of my trip it was out of order. Toilets are available at bus stations or at one of the petrol stations in Huelva province, where 45 minutes is allotted for a break to eat while the driver rests. In Portugal, the bus makes quick stops in Faro and its airport, as well as in Albufeira, before arriving at its destination.
Afternoon temperatures in Lagos are cool. Even though in summer the temperature in the town may be exactly the same as on the Costa del Sol, in Lagos you feel the chill brought by a rather strong wind from the ocean. The wind in Lagos starts blowing after 4pm and subsides around 10pm. Locals describe the breeze in the afternoon as "a welcome relief from the heat". It was hard to believe that after a day of 33C and above, the breeze knocks down the temperature almost by half. So when it's around 18C outside, unsurprisingly, the terraces of all the restaurants provide blankets to cover yourself with.
You will definitely need a good jacket for an evening boat ride along the coast, departing from Lagos Marina. The area is known for its magnificent rock formations. Beaches, caves and sandstone cliffs make Lagos one of the most beautiful towns on the Algarve coast. You can choose dolphin watching excursions with marine biologists or explore nearby caves such as Benagil in Lagoa or the rock formations at Ponta da Piedade.
Shelter from the winds can be sought behind the walls of the old 17th-century Fort of Ponta da Bandeira, though the fortress was built to protect Lagos not from the winds but from attacks by pirates and invaders. The guides also suggest you visit two markets - the modern municipal market, which exudes a strong smell of fish and seafood, and the old slave market.
In the 15th century, Lagos played an important role in the beginning of the Portuguese Age of Discovery. As a result, the town became the European centre of the slave trade, as people were brought from Portugal's African colonies. Besides the Costa del Sol's Lagos and Lagos in Portugal, there is a Lagos in Africa. The former capital of Nigeria was named by the Portuguese and probably after Lagos in the Algarve.
Like Lisbon, which keeps its traditions alive by preserving the antiquated tramway, there is a rather old train service along the coast east of Lagos. On it, for less than two euros you can explore the variety of coastal villages, gardens and fields, literally crossing the dunes. The train stops in Portimao, a larger resort with tall buildings, where you can find cheaper hotels to stay in.
Staying in Lagos during the hot summer season is a luxury, as it is hard to find anything under 100 euros a night. Tourists on a budget are advised to stay somewhere on the outskirts to be able to enjoy the natural beauty of the area. For example, the hotel with the English name Inn Seventies Cheap&Chic combines hippie flavour, Caribbean style and luxury wooden bungalows which are still under construction.
The huge swimming pool is a great option for those who don't fancy the cool waters of the Atlantic Ocean. The hotel has its urban sibling, located in the very centre. It is a favourite with guests and tourists for its rooftop bar, which offers panoramic views of the town and coastline.
Travelling to Lagos can be even more economical if you save on the hotel and take the night bus. After spending the whole day in Lagos, you can take a night bus around midnight, which gets into Malaga in the early morning, and by 9 o'clock you can be back in Lagos, this time on the Costa del Sol.
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