In search of the perfect coffee in Malaga

The Real Academia Española dictionary defines coffee as a "beverage made by infusing the toasted and ground seed of the coffee plant". It is one of the most traded products worldwide and ranks among the three most consumed drinks, alongside water and tea. In Spain, the average person consumes around four kilogrammes of coffee beans each year, which amounts to more than 500 cups of coffee.

But where is the coffee drunk? According to the Spanish coffee association, out of every 100 cups of coffee, 67 are drunk at home and 33 in bars and cafés. Each day, hospitality businesses serve over 22 million cups, which amounts to 68,500 tonnes of this "black gold". Furthermore, 76% of establishments use naturally roasted beans, 20% go for blends and 4% use capsules or instant coffee. In terms of preferences, 87% of consumers opt for caffeinated coffee, while 13% choose decaffeinated.

For many, these toasted and ground seeds from the fruit of a tropical shrub have become, whether just in the morning or at any time of day, both a necessity and, at times, a luxury.

In Malaga, more and more cafés are proudly serving speciality coffee. But what does this term actually mean? "The word speciality isn't just an adjective; it's more like a label, similar to the BIO certification for organic food. It comes with certain requirements. You can't use this term unless you meet traceability standards- meaning knowing exactly where the beans come from, how they were grown and how they were processed," explains Francis Tovar, founder of Café Academy, a school for Barista training and Latte Art.

For speciality coffee, the most premium quality, two main factors need to be considered. "Firstly, there is no speciality coffee that isn't 100% Arabica. Just like with olives or wine, where different varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah each have their own distinct growing conditions, the same is true for coffee. Secondly, it must score over 80 points out of 100 on the Speciality Coffee Association's quality scale. Coffee is a food product, so there needs to be transparency between the seller and the buyer. Additionally, it's important to look for recent harvests to ensure the coffee has the right moisture content and has been stored correctly," he added.

Just like in viticulture, where each grape variety impacts the flavour of the wine, the same applies to coffee. Varieties such as Bourbon, Catuaí, Heirloom, Caturra and Geisha (known for its floral, citrusy aromas), make each coffee bean a unique experience with every sip.

Coffee packages often feature the terms "Robusta" or "Arabica". "They are complete opposites. Robusta is cheaper, has much more caffeine and a harsher flavour. Since caffeine is naturally bitter, it adds more bitterness to the drink. Robusta is typically served in bars, where price is a key consideration, as the coffee is machine-harvested rather than by hand. For a long time, consumers have been looking for 100% Arabica. Within Arabica, there are still varying levels of quality. If it's one of higher quality, well cared for, with full traceability of the beans, and scores more than 80 points then it can be classed as speciality Arabica," explained Francis Tovar.

Another common term is "torrefacto". "In all of Europe, except Spain and Portugal it's banned. It involves adding heavily burnt sugar, often referred to as 'caramelised', to low quality coffee, typically from older harvests. This is done to extract some flavour, even if it's unpleasant, in order to give the coffee a taste instead of leaving it bland," stated Tovar, who has won the Spanish championship in Latte Art twice and was the world runner-up in Latte Art Grading.

To prepare coffee, Tovar prefers to use an Italian coffee maker. The company of Alfonso Bialetti, which specialised in aluminium, designed this type of coffee maker in 1933, as the modern high-pressure espresso machine didn't appear until 1948.

Here's how to make a good cup of coffee, according to Francis Tovar: "Start with preheated mineral water in the base, then add the ground coffee without pressing it down. Set the hob to about 70-80% power. When you see the water begin to rise, the coffee should flow out with a creamy texture, not just as a liquid, provided it's high-quality, fresh and specialty coffee. Once the cream starts to form, lower the heat to around 20-30%, and when it begins to bubble, remove the coffee maker from the heat. Cool it under the tap to stop the water from boiling, stir and serve."

"Here's something to keep in mind. In the final stage, just before turning off the heat, the bitterness of the bean is extracted. The coffee should have a hint of bitterness to balance the salty, acidic notes, but not too much, so it doesn't dominate the flavour," he explained.

When it comes to storing coffee properly, speciality coffee bags are designed with a special valve to release air and maintain the coffee's freshness. It should never be kept in the fridge, as it will absorb the flavours of the other foods.

A final note: more than 90 per cent of coffee is water, so it's important to consider the quality of water when making a great cup. The choice is yours: sombra, nube, manchado, with milk, cortado or black. Malaga offers a wide variety of coffees, but choosing a speciality bean can make all the difference compared to more commercial options.

Malaga

Bertani: C/ San Juan, 40 (951 00 38 30)

Bun and Coffee: C/ Duque de la Victoria, 11 (622 79 02 32)

Concept30: C/ Hoyo de Esparteros, 7 (640 78 72 24)

Delicotte Speciality Coffee & Tea: C/ Méndez Núñez, 3 (641 64 00 18)

Ganbaru Coffee: Plaza Enrique García Herrera, 10 (722 18 70 13)

Kima Coffee: C/ Carretería, 67 (660 05 93 94)

La Galga: C/ Pintor Casilari Roldán, 12

Mía Coffee Shop: C/ Vendeja, 9 (671 44 76 79)

Next Level Specialty Coffee: C/ Panaderos, 14

Syra Coffee: C/ Mártires, 13 (623 59 58 83)

Marbella

La Casita: C/ Acera de la Marina, 42 (647 02 92 13)

Maleva Bakery: C/ Pablo Casals, 11 (951 53 36 48)

Mi Casa Tu Casa: Av. Antonio Belón, 26, local 12 (951 13 08 22)

Paisana: Centro Plaza Shopping Centre, local 23 (689 05 38 77)

Pastelería Amaretto: Avda. Severo Ochoa, 35 (951 25 48 42)

Qahwa: Hotel El Fuerte, C/ El Fuerte, s/n (952 86 15 00)