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Paco Lorente
Hacienda Alakran, a travelling cuisine
Food critic

Hacienda Alakran, a travelling cuisine

There is a strong presence of Andalusian and Malaga flavours in the menu

Enrique Bellver

Malaga

Monday, 15 April 2024

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If we look at how this new restaurant is decorated, we might be deceived. Trees dressed in brightly coloured crocheted squares, cacti, more plants and even a scorpion ('alakran' is derived from the Andalusian Arabic word for 'scorpion') at the entrance might make us think that this is just another Mexican cuisine restaurant. But, be warned, if we think about who created the dishes that are prepared there, we will immediately see that we are a little bit wrong.

Knowing Richard Alcayde for many, many years, Miguel del Valle, Miguel Ruiz and Álvaro Redondo, it is easy to work out that Hacienda Alakrán is more than just an ethnic cuisine establishment, it is a restaurant where the fusion of food cultures becomes a reality and many of its dishes offered to the clientele, if not almost all of them, bear the stamp of creativity and imagination.

Hacienda Alakrán

  • Address Avda. Editor Ángel Caffarena 36. Malaga. 952 627 057. Web: Hacienda Alakrán

  • Prices Clamato oysters: 6.50€ Taco carabinero: 16,50€. Charcoal grilled sweetbreads: 13,50€.

  • Evaluation Cuisine: 8 Restaurant: 6.5 Wine list: 7 Rating: 7.5 / 10

As Richard says, "tacos, charcoal grilling and a lot of fusion" form the backbone of a groundbreaking menu in Malaga. We are getting used to Peruvian and Mediterranean Nikkei fusion and in truth, at least for me, I was missing an establishment with these characteristics where respect for flavours were its essence.

With its faults, and more so in the beginning, which every restaurant has, Hacienda Alakrán has the makings to be a benchmark of alternation in Malaga's restaurants at a time when eclectic cuisine is taking over our palates.

Fun cuisine

Andalusian and Malaga flavours in a fun cuisine that is not lacking in fusion. The four chefs have known each other for a long time and have been working together in the Starlite kitchens in Marbella, where they had already experienced the mixture of flavours, textures, products and ways of cooking. Now they have joined forces once again and are bringing their particular ways of understanding cuisine to life in a very attractive and even challenging menu.

Dishes such as the corn gazpachuelo, the carabinero shrimp tacos and the Moorish-style goat tacos, as well as the the braised wagyu sweetbreads, will make us sigh with every mouthful. A service in keeping with the pretensions of the restaurant, an average price that does not exceed 40 euros and a dining room distributed in two porches, terrace and interior, make Hacienda Alakrán a different restaurant.

Clamato oysters

A more than generous size of oyster, celery and coriander crudités and clamato (tomato juice concentrate, clam broth and monosodium glutamate), hence the name clamato oysters. The touch of clamato in just the right amount adds a great flavour.

Taco de carabinero

A complicated fusion that ends up in a great dish. Maize, cheese, beef sobrasada and prawns gently grilled so that none of their juices are lost. A great taste where the fusion of flavours is crucial.

Gazpachuelo de maíz

This gazpachuelo is one of the most striking dishes on the menu. Another way of preparing one of Malaga's most popular dishes. Here the fish is replaced by a delicate chicken broth accompanied by mushrooms and corn on the cob.

Wagyu sweetbreads

Delicious sweetbreads which almost levitate over the coals. Cooked for just the right amount of time for them to take on heat, juiciness and to enhance the flavour. The fat that infiltrates the meat is what makes the sweetbreads so special.

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