Wednesday, 15 November 2023, 13:26
When you finish eating your main course, what do you prefer: do you go straight to coffee, do you leave room for dessert, or do you never skip it even if you are full? If you're the latter, you will know that you do not always get that sweet taste in your mouth to finish off a meal. "If they are not at the same level as the food, it can ruin the whole experience". Pablo Vega is very clear about this. Fortunately, like him at Ménade, more and more chefs and restaurants are taking this sweet, almost necessary 'cherry on the top' more seriously. "It should be another part of the meal and should be taken care of in the same way that savoury dishes are taken care of because they have the same importance," said Sofía Martín, the inventor of the idea that at the Candado Golf restaurant no one leaves without ordering dessert.
It is part of its personality. Like the rest of the menu. A philosophy that is beginning to spread. Juanjo Carmona, from Cávala, has been working for years to ensure that "we don't lose that elaborate, homemade dessert that is missing in many places". Of course, it takes time and effort. That is why restaurants often choose factory-made desserts over homemade ones.
Now many are looking to differentiate themselves, steering away from the typical clichés - for example coulant or brownie - and serve their own homemade desserts. Or in any case, imported from specialised professionals such as Daza, La Cheesequería or La Tarta de la Madre de Cris, who put their signature at the end of many menus in Malaga. For those who like to start their meal at the end, we suggest this tour around the province in search of desserts with their own unique personality.
Address: Avda. de Príes, 16, Málaga.
Telephone: 952 609 489.
A must in any selection of desserts in Malaga. As eye-catching as it is famous, it never hurts to recall in case there's anyone who hasn't heard of it. Pepo Frade and María Scheller dedicate this little work of art of painstaking elaboration to the city, that is now in its sixth year and which emulates the typical Malaga biznaga flower. In this case, with white chocolate, mango, Malaga wine and crunchy almonds. The icing on the cake is the Italian meringue flowers, which Scheller makes and paints by hand. To top it all off, the dish that goes with it. There is even a surprise in store when you finish it.
Address: C/ Nueva, 4, Ronda.
Telephone: 952 877 209
After two months of daily tests and more than a hundred recipes, the Tragatá team came up with "the best flan in the world", according to its head chef, Daniel Moreno. An apparently simple classic that also has its science. The key lies in the balance of the ingredients: cream, sugar and egg yolk. "Nothing else. The only thing is that, by steaming it at a very low temperature, the flavour of the egg does not become dominant," said the chef from Ronda about his customers' favourite dessert.
Address: C/ Casablanca, 20, Torremolinos.
Telephone: 952 002 894.
The basic ingredients of this dessert are chocolate with hazelnuts. It is not so common on restaurant menus, but very popular in pastry shops. At Estragón they serve it in individual glasses (which can be shared depending on your sweet tooth). Cristina Domínguez's recipe includes the same amount of mascarpone and whipped cream, forming a cream that she mixes with a little gianduja paste that they make themselves with toasted hazelnuts, sugar and 70% chocolate. A good option to round off a meal with chocolate, without being particularly heavy.
Address: Urb. Baviera Gold, 11, Veléz-Málaga.
Telephone: 689 208 152.
For Pablo Vega, the head of the Ménade kitchen, the sweet end of the menu is just as important as the savoury part. That is why it is difficult to choose when it comes to dessert at this restaurant in Velez. But, given the choice, there are several that stand out. On the one hand, the cheesecake with an Argudo goat briquette; the so-called 'Oops, I dropped my ice cream! (and to avoid spoilers, we will just say that it is violet ice cream, lemon cream and ginger); and the one in the picture here, called 'Málaga en una milhoja', a form of caramelised puff pastry, creamy orange, cinnamon, toasted almonds, sultanas and meringue milk. All with Malaga DNA.
Address: C/ Pedro de Toledo, 4 y Plaza San Juan de la Cruz (C/ Compositor Lehmberg Ruiz, 28 - Málaga).
María García never thought that such a seemingly simple dessert would be so popular. Originally from South America, she started making it after a meeting at the Araboka restaurant in Mexico. But with her own version: a Genoese sponge cake base which, when it comes out of the oven, is bathed in three milks (whole, evaporated and condensed). It is often enriched with flavours from dulce de leche, coffee, brandy, whipped cream, meringue... In her case, García wanted to make it different and accompanied it with toasted cream ice cream. This is how it is made in Araboka, where it has been on the menu for some years with a pairing proposal by Antonio Fernández: Noctiluca Dulce Moscatel D.O. Málaga and Barbeito Boal 10 Madeira. "It is very tasty, because it is sweet, but as it is a very soaked sponge cake, it is even better," explained this Malaga native who, at the head of Candy's Repostería Artesanal, puts the finishing touch to the savoury dishes at Araboka.
Address: Avda. de la Aurora, 1 (Malaga).
Telephone: 622 816 624.
This dessert is named after the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova, and is very popular in Australia and New Zealand where it is believed to have originated: the chef at the hotel where the ballerina was staying during a visit to the country wanted to surprise her with this dessert. Initially, meringue, cream and fruit. From there, the chef can create as many possibilities as he wants. At Tasca Laska, Zuzana Salamon makes the cream with mascarpone and cream, the topping fruit depending on the season. "Contrary to what many people think, it is a light dessert and not at all sweet," said Salamon, who, as a good Slovakian, has revived this recipe that is rarely seen in Malaga, but is very popular in her homeland.
Address: Alameda de Colón, 5 (Malaga).
Telephone: 628 021 363.
Since it opened three years ago, Cávala has always been committed to the sweet side of the menu. So much so that they have a pastry chef on the team, despite the fact that "it is not easy to find this type of professional". "It is a very artistic part of the kitchen, but less intuitive, more methodical. Many chefs don't like it," said Juanjo Carmona, in charge of the Soho restaurant. He himself does like it and believes that work must be done so that "we don't lose that elaborate, homemade dessert that is missing in many places". It is true, as he acknowledged, it takes time and effort, but he understands that, not only does it "provide identity", but it also "has an impact on the customer, he appreciates it". The menu varies according to the season, but the choux pastry (a kind of profiterol) filled with chocolate mousse or the carob macarons never fail. If you are looking for something lighter and more refreshing, they now serve a fruit stir fry with fig consommé, which, without being too sweet, is a nice way to end the meal.
Address: C/ Císter, 11, Malaga.
Telephone: 630 917 396.
As a tribute to the legendary Parisian restaurant L'ambroisie, Dani Carnero serves this chocolate cake at La Cosmopolita's little sister, which is loved by everyone, but especially for chocoholics. Carnero said he makes this from a recipe "everyone says that have." He does not know if it is really the same as the original, but it is nevertheless highly acclaimed in his restaurant on Calle Císter. The key is in the mousse that is baked in the oven, which makes it more special than any others. It is coupled with a sablé pastry, a classic in this type of dessert. It is also served with ice cream. If you don't like chocolate, the corn crème caramel with praline is also highly recommended.
Restaurante del Candado Golf
Address: C. Golf del Candado, s/n.
Telephone: 952 299 341.
Sofía Martín still can't explain why her key lime pie is so popular. She is in charge of desserts at the Candado Golf restaurant. Every dessert is popular, but this one is at the top of the list. The key is a perfect mixture of condensed milk, egg yolk and lime, with a double-baked biscuit base. A recipe that Sofía Martín found in an English book and took to her own country. A must whether you have a sweet tooth or not.
Address: Avda. Antonio Belón, 8, Marbella.
Telephone: 952 824 108.
Fernando Alcalá was not only Revelation Chef at Madrid Fusion 2019 thanks to his then popular Kava Marbella, but also, that same year, he won the award for Best Cheesecake in Spain. Four years later, he continues to show off that title at Cotxino. There you can see his skill with cheesecake and why he won recognition at the national championship in Gran Canaria with his take on a cheesecake. One of those creamy, juicy, not overly curdled, and above all, with a cheesy flavour.
Address: Hotel Puente romano, Av. Bulevar Príncipe Alfonso de Hohenlohe, Marbella.
Telephone: 951 607 011.
It is not easy to find this sweet British delicacy in these parts. It became popular in the 19th century in the form of sponge cakes soaked in sherry and brandy. Now Dani García is inspired by this recipe and somehow brings it to Marbella with his own touch. In this case, customers will find warm brioche soaked in vanilla and Baileys sauce with toasted butter ice cream. Some may be reminded of the tarta di rose served at Leña, its sibling. The difference is in the juiciness of the drunken sponge.
Address: Avda. de Plutarco, 20, Malaga.
Telephone: 952 251 108.
You are probably used to tiramisu being brought to you in pieces or in glasses when you order it in a restaurant. But there is another way of eating it: in the coffee pot itself. This is how they serve it at Majao Teatinos. And all because of the head chef's "passion to surprise", Rebeca Guzmán. "Who doesn't like a good coffee and a good, well-prepared tiramisu? Why not fuse the two together? It's done here. She even makes the sponge cake. She then adds a cream with icing sugar, egg yolks and mascarpone cheese. Then she sets up the coffee machine with a small amount of water and a large amount of coffee, naturally roasted and very aromatic. In the upper compartment, the sponge cake soaked in bitter almond liqueur and the mascarpone cream and bitter cocoa sprinkled one after the other. When it is put on the heat and the coffee rises, it passes through the different layers and everything is soaked from the bottom to the top. The restaurant run by Nacho Uriol also offers a version for the little ones and for those who do not drink alcohol.
Address: C/ Cruz Blanca, 12, Antequera.
Telephone: 611 766 837.
For José Antonio Crespo, torrija does not have to be something exclusive to a few days at Easter. The one he serves at his restaurant Anfitrión has been such a success from the start and he has not hesitated to keep it on the menu no matter what time of year it is. It is a torrija made with Juanito Baker brand brioche bread that is soaked in milk infused with orange peel, lemon, sugar and cinnamon. It is accompanied by zambaione sauce -which they make with cream and Marsala wine-, Maria biscuit ice cream and white chocolate ganache. Even those who are not very fond of torrijas will come back for me.
Address: C/ Alcazabilla, 1, Malaga.
Telephone: 851 248 478.
Curiously, it was a report in SUR that inspired Willie Orellana. It was the anniversary of Tortas Ramos, so why not do something to celebrate? When he was a child, his mother used to eat it crumbled in coffee with milk, and he would take bites of it. The chef from Malaga wanted to bring back that memory, relatable for so many of his fellow countrymen, and he captured it in a dessert that is already more than firmly established on his menu. Here, it is based on a café con leche cream, with crumbled cake on top and milk foam. Basically, as Orellana explained, it is a dessert that takes many people back to their childhood.
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