Cobalto 15 in Malaga, food made for sharing

Cobalto 15, after the fire at La Deriva restaurant in Soho, Malaga city, has been transformed once again, giving way to a new and more varied culinary offer while still maintaining a terrace on Muelle Uno where drinks and cocktails have always been the mainstay. Antonio García, owner of the property, as well as of Cávala and La Deriva, decided not long after the work on the damaged restaurant began, to bring the type of food demanded by the public in La Deriva to this space.

About a year ago, Antonio Jiménez, who until then had been the head chef of the Japanese restaurant Ta-kumi in Malaga, joined Cobalto 15, which meant that, together with the cocktails, Japanese-influenced dishes were served as an accompaniment to the cocktails. The arrival of Miguel Mayor to take over the kitchen at Cávala has also meant that Cobalto 15 now has a new culinary proposal focused more on the sharing style of cuisine and not exempt from traditional Malaga flavours.

Among the new proposals are salami tartar, which is served here with slices of aubergine in tempura and seasoned with sugar cane honey, some very juicy and crunchy croquettes or the classic Russian salad version of Miguel and which includes an air of lemon that balances the rest of the flavours and acts as a common thread between them. In short, a cuisine with national roots and designed to be shared by the customer.

Creativity and tradition come together in a menu of casual cuisine with an edgy air aimed at a younger public and not at all tied to conventional opening hours, which is why at Cobalto 15 the kitchen does not close for the entire opening hours of the establishment.

Another novelty that may attract the most attention is closely related to the average price of a lunch or dinner, around 30 euros if you are careful with the drinks and cocktails.

The service still needs further adjustment to the new philosophy that Antonio García has embodied in Cobalto 15.

Pastel de patatas (potato cakes)

The shadow of Miguel Mayor, chef at Cávala, is long and it is very noticeable in the new gastronomic venture of this restaurant. A potato cake with a very fine texture in the mouth but with a strong flavour forms the base of a beef tartar.

Ensaladillo de cangrejo (crab salad)

Such an edgy presentation. A salad that stands out for its correct serving temperature, a very balanced flavour of all its ingredients, especially that of the crab and a very ethereal foam.

Bacalao (cod)

This dish is not always available, only when the fresh cod is worth it. Poached, rather than fried, and with a thin base and crispy onion piled on top of the loin, it is one of the most texturally successful cod dishes.

Carpaccio de presa (cured Iberian pork)

The Inés Rosales torta on which the Iberian prey carpaccio sits does not help the flavour that should be found in this dish; it is too sweet despite the seasoning of the carpaccio itself, cut into thin, juicy slices.

Cobalto 15 (Malaga) Address: Paseo de la Farola, 4. Telephone: 722 653 752. Web: cobalto15.es

Prices: Salami tartar: 12€ Potato pie: 12.50€ Crab salad: 15€.

Valuation: Cuisine: 7; dining area: 6.5; Wine list: 6.5. Rating: 7 / 10