Food and Drink
Celebrate the Axarquía's Muscat de Alexandria grape harvest
A number of towns and villages in the east of Malaga province hold annual festivals to pay tribute to the centuries-old tradition and give thanks to the people who work in the sector throughout August and September when the grape harvest is in full swing
Jennie Rhodes
While today the Axarquía area of Malaga province is well-known for its subtropical fruits, once almonds, olives and Muscat de Alexandria grapes reigned supreme. There is, of course, still production of all three of these products and in fact the centuries-old process of cultivating and drying the grapes to turn them into raisins (pasas) was recognised by UNESCO through the Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIHAS) programme of the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) in 2017.
The 'vendimia' (grape harvest) traditionally gets under way in mid-August in the Axarquía and that is why a number of villages still associated with the sector hold festivals at this time of year during which locals pay tribute to the centuries-old tradition and give thanks to the people who continue to work in it. A common sight in the vieyards of villages like Moclinejo, El Borge and Almáchar is rows of raisins drying in the sun, the grapes are sold in local shops and both are used in traditional recipes.
Iznate
Iznate marks the start of the grape harvest with Día de la Uva Moscatel (muscatel grape day) and the festival always takes place on the first Saturday in August, so this year is no exception and it’s happening this Saturday 8 August. There are walking tours, demonstrations and traditional Verdiales and Charangas music, as well as the opportunity to try the grapes and of course the raisins and sweet wine from 7pm.
Cómpeta
Cómpeta is celebrating its annual Noche del Vino (wine night) on Saturday 15 August. Local sweet wine is offered to residents and visitors who gather by the fountain on Plaza Almijara. The wine is soaked up by a plate of 'migas', a traditional dish consisting of breadcrumbs fried in olive oil and garlic and served with a salad.
The filling meal would be enough to keep the workers going as they spent long days in the vineyards harvesting the fruit. The festivities continue into the night on the Plaza Almijara and Plaza de la Vendimia with music and dancing.
El Borge
Día de la Pasa (raisin day) is celebrated on the third Sunday in September in the village of El Borge, with demonstrations of traditional agricultural skills, such as threshing grain using mules, sieving the raisins and growers can be seen carrying grapes in large baskets on their heads. Wine as well as fresh grapes are also served with 'migas' just as in Cómpeta and there’s music and dancing well into the night. This year's event will be on Sunday 20 September.
Moclinejo
Moclinejo is home to one of Malaga's best-known wineries, Bodega Antonio Muñoz Cabrera, also known as Dimobe, which has been run by the same family since 1927, so it is unsurprising that the fruit and its products are celebrated here too.
The Fiesta de los Viñeros is celebrated on the second Sunday in September and pays tribute to all of the people who work in the industry. Each year there are demonstrations including the traditional treading of the grapes. The bodega itself is well worth a visit as it is also home to a museum documenting the family's winemaking history and tradition.
La Viñuela
La Viñuela also pays tribute to the raisin in mid-September with the Fiesta de la Pasa, when the town hall gives out free grapes and sweet wine. There's also the opportunity to see the traditional grape-treading and other activities related to the harvest and sector. Exact date to be confirmed.
Almáchar
Almáchar celebrates its ajoblanco (a cold soup made with almonds, garlic and extra virgin olive oil) on the first Saturday of September - Fiesta del Ajoblanco, so this year it's on Saturday 5th. As the village is also one of the main producers of grapes, raisins and sweet wine, there is no shortgae of the products to accompany the ajoblanco.
Almáchar is home to the Museo de la Pasa, a fascinating little house crammed full of artifacts related to the industry. Look out for the painted tiles on the walls and the mural marking the UNESCO recognition on Paseo de la Axarquía. Also check out the Bodega Fabio Cullet, which is also on the paseo and which produces a range of wines using locally produced grapes.
This year an exhibition of art which reflects the Axarquía’s grape, raisin and sweet wine heritage is touring around the villages on the raisin route: 'Ventanas al arte y al Muscatel (windows to art and to the muscatel) will coincide with the dates of the festivals in each town and village. It will therefore be in Iznate this weekend, before moving to Cómpeta in time for 15 August.
The Axarquía Costa del Sol association of town halls along with the Moscatel association, the Sabor a Málaga brand, Almáchar, El Borge, Iznate and Moclinejo town halls and the Ucopaxa association of muscatel grape growers as well as and Dimobe winery are all working together to promote the competition and subsequent exhibition.