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Javier Almellones
Cadiz
Friday, 26 July 2024, 13:14
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A towering fortress, an abandoned railway project and a shrine surrounded by legend.
These are just some of the features of the Cadiz town of Olvera, which forms part both of the Serranía de Ronda and the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, serving as one of the entrances to the latter.
Out of the many great cycling routes in Andalucía, one of the most exciting is the Vía Verde de la Sierra, which runs between the provinces of Cadiz and Seville, but also very close to Malaga province.
This route, which travels through the Sierras Béticas, is 36 kilometres long and runs along the southernmost mountain ranges of the Iberian Peninsula, between the villages of Puerto Serran and Olvera in Cadiz.
Unlike other greenways, abandoned railway track beds, trains never actually took this route. The 'Ferrocarril de la Sierra', set to run between Jerez and Almargen, was a project dreamed up at the beginning of the century. However, of the 119 kilometres of planned railway track, only the 21-kilometre section between Jerez and the Jédula sugar factory was completed.
One of the main attractions along the Vía Verde de la Sierra is the historic town of Olvera, in the province of Cadiz. This is one of Andalucía's 'conjuntos históricos', a legal designation awarded to the town in 1983. Olvera is one of the region's iconic white towns and villages, with steep streets which lead up to the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación and its Nasrid-era castle, which is a must-see.
The steep climb up to the fortress is worthwhile for a number of reasons. Not only is it a well-preserved walled enclosure of great historical value, but it is also an ideal viewpoint over the surrounding areas, where, for many decades, sat the border between the Andalusians and Castilians.
From the castle, which can be reached from the upper part of the town centre where the parish church is located, views of the town centre and its well-kept Barrio de la Villa can be enjoyed. From there, the town spreads out until it reaches sprawling olive groves and wheat fields.
From here, the path along which the train would have passed if the 'Ferrocarril de la Sierra' railway project had been completed, can also be seen.
Important villages or landmarks are also visible from the viewpoint, including the Castillo de Hierro de Pruna (Seville), the neighbouring town of Torre-Alháquime (Cadiz) and Peñón de Zaframagón, in Coripe (also in Seville province).
The castle, which takes over an hour to visit in full, boasts many well-preserved spaces, such as the weapons courtyard, the keep, two cisterns and a fortified tower.
Olvera is also home to the monastery of Caños Santos, where the patron saint of the Malaga town of Cañete la Real supposedly once appeared. The shrine of the Virgen de los Remedios is also here. Thanks to a popular legend, this is one of the most symbolic sites in the area. According to oral lore, Olvera suffered a severe drought in 1715, which endangered its crops and its livestock. In their desperation, the people of Olvera asked for the Virgen de los Remedios to be brought to the town from the shrine, a sanctuary about three kilometres away.
Every spring, one of Spain's oldest pilgrimages takes place in her honour.
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