Malva by Txema Palacio, quality local produce, masterfully handled over hot coals

The current menu at Malva is deeply rooted in the dishes that have always featured in homes, txokos and restaurants across the north of Spain and beyond. Palacio's origins - Bilbao - say it all. This Basque chef has solid foundations and hasn't forgotten his roots, which is why many of his dishes take you straight to his homeland. But there is also a nod to Malaga's coastal cuisine through locally sourced produce, garden vegetables and fried fish.

Malva Beach is more than a beach bar, it is a restaurant on the beach with a clear gastronomic vocation and with special attention to detail. Facing the sea, the space is conceived so that everything flows naturally, integrating landscape, design and cuisine; and conveys a sense of harmony that is reflected in every element: from its warm and sophisticated interior, with hardwood furniture, to an attractive hammock area designed to enjoy the surroundings in peace and quiet.

Txema Palacio's offering breathes the sea above all else. This is cooking built around the finest raw ingredients, with no unnecessary artifice, which is why certain specials and menu dishes would be better dropped in favour of the more familiar cooking that Txema does best, as they sit awkwardly in a restaurant that commits to the grill in the most literal sense and to letting the ingredient speak for itself. His career has been one of constant pursuit of flavour, and there is something very much our own in the way he understands the table as an open, convivial experience.

Taste is the starting point, everything revolves around juices, sauces, cooking points and the balance of each dish. His proposal is based on a solid classical base that evolves towards a contemporary cuisine with a sense that still needs to be refined a little more, as does the waiter service, which shows a lack of knowledge, especially with the wines. The grill and hot embers play an essential role in Txema's cuisine and that is what diners should find at Malva, a direct, honest and nuanced way of cooking.

Here's a natural English version:Dishes such as the Carril clams over the coals are a genuine taste of the sea, outstanding in quality, texture, juiciness and size, as is the grilled sea bream. The Estepona langoustine gyozas and the squid with a pumpkin cream, however, fall short, and the confit tuna mormo with sweet potato and vermouth has no place on the menu either.

A cocktail list for aperitifs or after-dinner drinks, and a wine list that is decent but a little thin on current references, round out a gastronomic offering set right by the sea in a well-designed, easily accessible space.