Malaga gastronomy: skewered cod loin wins over Holy Week visitors

Cod returns to tables all over Malaga every year with the arrival of Holy Week. It's one of the mainstays of Lent, featured in a wide range of recipes that are part of tradition. On the Malaga coast, however, some have long since decided to adapt the fish to the local cuisine and skewer it.

Although the 'espetos' remain the staple of the skewering technique, the range of foods has been expanding. Sea bream, red porgy, horse mackerel and even shellfish have found their place on the grill.

The cod loin skewer is one of the most unique offerings of the Vicen-Playa restaurant, which has been preparing the dish for more than a decade. It perfectly fits this time of year.

The origin of this dish does not lie in a traditional recipe. It was, quite literally, a suggestion. "We started making it because a foreign customer asked for it," manager Rafael Jurado says. That initial trial clearly showed its potential. "When we saw how it turned out that first time, we were surprised by the result," Jurado says.

From there, they refined the process until they found the perfect balance. Cod, by its very nature, requires precise handling to retain its juiciness, so they opted to serve it with a pil-pil sauce on the side, allowing each diner to add it to their liking.

The idea eventually took hold. Initially offered as a special off-menu suggestion, it later became a permanent part of the menu and, over time, has grown into one of the restaurant's most original dishes.

The dish is made with two cod fillets and is usually served with a side dish, typically white rice, in a combination designed to balance flavors and make the most of the sauce. The quality of the product is also key: Vicen-Playa works with cod that is frozen at the source, which allows it to maintain its properties virtually intact. It's almost as if it were fresh, because the freezing process takes place right on the boat.

During Holy Week, when cod demand skyrockets, these skewers present an alternative for those looking to break away from the usual recipes without sacrificing the classic flavor. "It's cod season," Jurado says, adding that demand for all their dishes increases significantly during this time.

When it comes to pairing it with wine, the recommendation is dry white wine. Jurado suggests a Verdejo made in the province of Malaga, at Barón de Rivero (Bodegas Málaga Virgen), which complements the intensity of the fish and the richness of the sauce.

Cod features prominently on the restaurant's menu. Among the most common options are cod Rioja-style, cod in wine sauce, fried cod and traditional cod omelettes, which are especially popular during Holy Week.

Right by the beach and over the embers, cod finds a new presentation in this original recipe. It is yet another example of a tradition which, whilst retaining its essence, keeps improving with unexpected twists.