Higo de la Reina: sweet, late-ripening and from Malaga

The ‘Higo de la Reina’ fig is particularly associated with the Guadalhorce Valley, where it is still grown in towns such as Coín, Cártama, Alhaurín el Grande and Alhaurín de la Torre, among others. Sebastián Hevilla, of Familia Hevilla (Coín), is very familiar with a variety that has been part of this agricultural landscape for generations and points out a key characteristic for identifying it: ‘It ripens late’. Harvesting begins around the first few days of August and then continues for quite some time. “It has a very long life cycle,” he explains, in contrast to other fig trees that can produce the bulk of their fruit in just one or two weeks.

This makes September a good month to look for it. The season can continue until the end of that month and even stretch into the first few days of October, provided the conditions are right. It is not, therefore, one of those fruits that appear briefly for just a few days, but rather a variety that is available for much of the latter part of summer.

When it comes to identifying it visually, there are several clues. Hevilla points out that it can reach a considerable size, although obviously not all specimens are the same, and that green hues predominate on its exterior. One of its most distinctive features appears as it matures: the skin often takes on a characteristic striped or slightly cracked appearance. According to Sebastián, it is "a very distinctive little stripe, which is a tell-tale sign". When cut open, another distinguishing feature becomes apparent: flesh that is usually a deep reddish colour.

At Higos El Indio, a family-run farm situated near Torre Alquería, in Alhaurín de la Torre, which specialises exclusively in this variety, Carmen Gómez agrees with that description. For her, they are "wider and rounder" than other figs and, above all, she insists on paying attention to "the stripes". She describes them very vividly as "very plump and very striped" fruits.

For this reason, those small lines or cracks on the surface need not be interpreted as a defect. On the contrary, they can serve as a clue to recognising a ‘Reina’ fig that has progressed further in its ripening process.

There are also subtle nuances in the flavour. Gómez particularly highlights their sweetness: "They are much sweeter," he says, speaking from his experience with a farm that produces only this variety. Hevilla, on the other hand, points out that it is not necessarily the sweetest of all figs. What he particularly appreciates is the balance of its flavour, which makes it "very pleasant to eat". Both views help to explain why this fruit remains so highly regarded amongst those who know it well.

Another characteristic is less obvious to the buyer, but very clear to anyone familiar with the tree: the ‘Reina’ fig tree does not produce ‘brevas’. Some fig trees first produce ‘brevas’ and then figs, but this variety produces only the latter.

It is also primarily a fruit to be eaten fresh. Although it can be dried, it is not the variety traditionally used to make dried figs or fig cake. It has a high moisture content and much of its appeal lies precisely in eating it when it has just been picked.

This is where one of the most interesting characteristics of the ‘Reina’ fig comes into play. Its productive period can last for weeks, but once picked from the tree, a race against time begins. "It’s a fruit with a short shelf life," warns Sebastián Hevilla. An orange or a lemon can be stored for much longer; with a fig, however, the window is very narrow: “You pick it and within a couple of days, three days, the fig is already past its best.”

It can be kept chilled to extend its shelf life slightly, but it remains an extremely perishable product. This characteristic affects how it is sold, transported and also how it is purchased. The shorter the time between harvesting and consumption, the better the chances of finding it in good condition.

The weather also plays a major role in what happens during the growing season. An occasional shower does not necessarily ruin the harvest, as Hevilla points out. The problem arises when the fruit remains wet for several days. Excessive moisture can cause it to crack and subsequently affect its ripening.

Carmen Gómez, speaking from Alhaurín de la Torre, highlights another factor: even an extremely hot summer does not necessarily benefit the fruit. “When it’s very hot, the figs don’t thrive; when it’s cold they don't either,” she explains. Ultimately, a certain balance is needed and “the weather calls the shots”. At Higos El Indio, they believe this season is not turning out particularly well, whereas in a favourable year the farm can produce around 5,000 kilos.

Despite this, the fig tree continues to be regarded as a rewarding tree. Sebastián Hevilla recalls how it has traditionally been a feature of small plots of land, country houses, country lanes and family farms. It does not require the intensive care needed by other fruit trees and also provides particularly generous shade during the hot months. This almost domestic presence also explains the close relationship that generations of people from Malaga have maintained with its fruit.

Production is not limited solely to the municipalities of the Guadalhorce region where the fig trees are located. Higos El Indio takes part of its harvest to Mercamálaga, and from there the produce is distributed to various locations across the province, including Marbella and Fuengirola. The farm also fulfils orders from greengrocers and sells directly to private customers.

The Hevilla family also uses various channels to sell their produce, which is exclusively organic, including markets, consumer co-operatives and online sales. They even deliver outside Malaga when they receive orders, although the delicate nature of the figs means they must minimise the time taken to get them from the field to the customer.

Therefore, over the coming weeks, it can be found in markets and greengrocers that source local produce, either directly from producers or via online sales. Once at home, it is best to eat it soon and check its condition before consuming it. There’s a particularly simple way to tell if it’s started to go off: "If it smells of vinegar, that’s it," warns Hevilla. That smell indicates that the fermentation process has already begun.

You can also eat it with the skin on. “It’s a matter of taste,” explains Sebastián. You simply need to remove the small stalk at the top to eat it whole. Leaving the skin on provides more fibre, whilst peeling it allows the sweetness of the flesh to come through more strongly.

From there, the culinary possibilities are endless. It can be served with cheese or ham, added to salads or used in other dishes, although Hevilla doesn’t need overly complicated recipes to do justice to a fruit that’s at its best when picked straight from the tree.

The image Sebastián Hevilla uses to explain his relationship with the ‘queen of figs’ has little to do with cooking. He speaks of the countryside, of trees that for generations have stood alongside paths, farmsteads, houses and small plots of land, and of the custom of approaching a fig tree to see which fruits were ready to eat.

For him, one of life’s true pleasures is simply picking a handful of ripe figs and eating them right there, under the tree. “It’s a real treat,” he says.

Perhaps that image explains better than any technical specification a fruit that still maintains close ties with the Malaga countryside. The ‘Higo de la Reina’ can be recognised by its plump shape, those distinctive stripes on the skin, its reddish flesh and a season that stretches well into September. But its finest moment is still arguably the simplest: when just a few seconds have passed between the branch and your mouth.

For generations, the fig tree has been much more than just a productive fruit tree. It has grown alongside houses, paths, farmsteads and small plots of land, blending into the landscape in an almost domestic way. As well as providing food, it offered particularly welcome shade during the summer. Fortunately, something of that direct connection with the tree remains, as figs still have a very distinct season, yet are also in high demand throughout September.