Andorra: not yet the EU but closer

In October, Andorra (along with San Marino) signed a historic Association Agreement with the European Union in Brussels. It does not make Andorra an EU member state nor does it grant it seats in the European Parliament, but it allows Andorra to participate in the EU’s single market on the basis of common rules and conditions of fair competition, which promotes the development of trade and investment. SUR in English visited Andorra to find out more about this small principality, which has preserved its independence for centuries.

Unlike Gibraltar, the much larger Andorra can only be reached by bus (no train or plane connections). For example, from Malaga, you can take the direct train to Barcelona and get off at Lleida. It is from this Catalan city that buses run regularly to Andorra, taking a couple of hours to cover the 150 km distance along, by the way, non-serpantine roads. The autumn agreement does not entail Andorra’s accession to the Schengen Area, so border controls remain in place. There is a checkpoint, but the bus enters the principality without stopping. It should be mentioned that Andorra, being not a member of the EU, uses border signs featuring a circle of twelve golden stars because the principality is a member of the Council of Europe which actually created the flag.

The change of country is also evident in the landscape, highlighting the fact that Andorra is a mountainous country with high peaks, glacial valleys and dozens of lakes with crystal-clear water. In winter, the mountains are blanketed in snow, creating ideal conditions for winter sports, whilst in spring and summer the melting snow transforms the landscape into rushing rivers and meadows carpeted with wildflowers. Autumn is a time of vibrant colours and an abundance of mushrooms. Andorra’s forests offer ideal conditions for mushroom foraging and gastronomic delights. White mushrooms are highly prized in the local cuisine. Incidentally, whilst foraging for mushrooms, you can easily find yourself outside Andorra’s borders – in France or Spain.

Yes. Andorra’s total area is just 468 square kilometres, making it one of the smallest countries in the world. However, with a population of just under 90,000, the principality is the largest of Europe’s microstates, bordering Spain (63.7 km) and France (56.6 km). Indeed, Andorra is a striking example of long-term cooperation between these countries.

Although it is a principality, its heads of state are not a traditional monarch or prince, but two institutional figures - the President of France and the Spanish Bishop of Urgell, a neighbouring Catalan city. This model of separation of powers dates back to the ‘Pareage’ treaty of 1278 – an agreement that settled a medieval feudal dispute over the valleys of the Pyrenees between the Bishop of Urgell and the French nobleman, the Count of Foix.

To put an end to the hostilities, a treaty was signed establishing joint sovereignty over these lands. Over the centuries, the Count of Foix’s rights were inherited by the King of Navarre, then by the King of France and, finally, by the President of France. As for Spain, the Bishop of Urgell retains his rights up to now.

One of the peculiarities of Andorra is the fact that it is the only sovereign state in the world where Catalan is the sole official language. Compared with the Costa del Sol, tourist information on sites are often not translated into English. Incidentally, English is mainly taught at two large international schools following a British/international curriculum and at several language schools. Spanish, French and Portuguese are also widely spoken in the streets thanks to immigration and tourism.

However, speaking on the phone here, for example with Spain, is something of a luxury. The fact is that the standard EU rules on free roaming do not apply in Andorra. Therefore, switching off your mobile data or enabling ‘airplane mode’ upon entering the principality will help you avoid very high international roaming charges. That said, Wi-Fi is widely available in hotels, cafés and public places throughout the principality. At the same time, Andorra’s status as a non-EU country is an attractive feature for wealthy foreigners who prefer ultra-low taxes, a favourable regulatory environment and… a high quality of life.

Good shopping might be considered a part of ‘dolce vita’. Andorra has always attracted shopping enthusiasts, which is precisely why it is often associated with a long street lined with shops and restaurants. Avinguda Meritxell is the main commercial avenue and shopping hub in Andorra la Vella. Together with its continuation, Avinguda Carlemany in Escaldes-Engordany, it forms the renowned pedestrian-friendly Shopping Mile. To say proudly, in the capital, there are several ‘Primor’ perfume shops – a brand founded in Málaga – which have extraordinarily impressive looks. You can also go shopping in the historic centre of Andorra la Vella through the cobbled streets amongst traditional stone buildings. In comparison to Gibraltar, Andorra’s official currency is the euro. Incidentally, what immediately catches the eye are the shelves of cigarettes in ordinary supermarkets.

It is quite cold in Andorra in late autumn. That is precisely why the local thermal springs can come in very handy. They mainly spring from the parish of Escaldes-Engordany, where they rise to the surface at very high temperatures around 70 °C and are rich in sulphur, minerals and sodium, offering beneficial properties for the skin, muscles and joints. This is clearly evident on the streets of the capital, in the form of sculptures and huge fountains. It’s well worth visiting ‘Caldea’ – the largest thermal spa centre in southern Europe which features iconic glass architecture.