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Tony Bryant
Friday, 31 January 2025, 19:06
Many people associate the Algarve in Portugal with sun and beach holidays, which is no surprise seeing as it is considered to be the biggest and most important Portuguese tourist region. However, the small mountain town of Alcoutim offers a contrast to the tourist bars, night clubs and rowdy tourists for which this region is famed. Located on the banks of the Guadiana river, the tranquil town of Alcoutim is one of the least densely populated municipalities in Portugal.
Its strategic position on the border with the neighbouring Spanish town of Sanlúcar del Guadiana (Huelva), situated on the opposite side of the river, forced the construction of several defence structures over the centuries, some of which remain today and which have become points of interest to visitors. Alcoutim no longer has the walls that once defended its border, but it retains the peaceful atmosphere of a traditional fishing village with plenty to offer.
The quickest way to reach Alcoutim from Sanlúcar del Guadiana is by using the only cross border zipwire in Spain, a 720-metre flight that takes around 60 seconds. For the faint-hearted, there is a regular ferry service that crosses the river in five minutes, while the 80-kilometre route by car will take around one hour.
A walk through the old part of the town reveals centuries-old blue and white houses in steep, narrow streets adorned with monuments and relics of the town's past, while the port offers the opportunity to watch the returning fishing boats or marvel over the sailboats anchored in the small marina.
The local cuisine consists of various fish and seafood dishes, along with game, and grilled meats, in particular, the local speciality, black pork, from pigs raised in the area. The traditional bread, baked in a wood-burning oven, is the basis for regional delicacies such as migas, a dish made with bread crumbs, bacon or pork, chorizo sausage and peppers.
Being a border town, there are countless legends and tales of bandits and smugglers: today, the old paths they used to avoid the authorities have taken on a new life as trails to observe nature, the landscape and local customs.
Smuggling was the livelihood of many families for much of the 20th century, especially during the Spanish Civil War and in the years that followed.
A mountainous region by nature, it has a typical undulating landscape of distinct beauty, full of light, life and colour.
Those who enjoy long walks in the country can take advantage of the Guadiana route (Rota do Guadiana), a course that follows the river and the Via Algarviana, which crosses the interior of the Algarve from east to west. Those who wish to explore the area will find no end of interesting relics, such as the Lavajo Menhir complex, made up of three monoliths belonging to the Neolithic period. There is also the site of the Montinho das Laranjeiras Roman villa, located by the river, approximately ten kilometres south of Alcoutim.
As part of its cultural calendar, the town, together with Sanlúcar de Guadiana, hosts a festival (Festival do Contrabando) to highlight their association with smugglers. Held on the last weekend of March, this event offers three days of history, art and culture, and includes a seasonal market, local cuisine, ethnographic parades, street theatre, live music and craft workshops.
Of course, the town hosts several other festivals offering local culture and identity through the summer. These include Alcoutim con Vida, a weekly programme of concerts and shows; and the Lady of Mount Carmel river procession on 15 August, during which Portuguese and Spanish boats accompany the image of the Virgin along the Guadiana.
Alcoutim also highlights its traditions and customs on 31 tiled plaques by local artist Carlos Luz, found on the N122-1, the main road through the town. The striking hand-painted tiles depict everyday scenes and local characters, which reveal traditional costumes, professions, dances and folklore.
There is also plenty of historically important architecture to see, including the 13th-century castle, located in a dominant position on a hill overlooking the town. Today, the medieval fortress houses the archaeological museum, which among other things, boasts the largest collection of board games from the Islamic period. Opened in 2000, this museum offers a historical journey from the Neolithic period (5000 to 3000 BC) until the 20th century, presenting the archaeological remains that have been collected and analysed by specialists over the years.
There is no shortage of religious buildings and noble abodes to visit either, such as the 16th century church of mercy (Igreja da Misericordia), and the former home of the counts of Alcoutim (Casa dos Condes de Alcoutim). Another two interesting religious temples are the Saint Anthony hermitage (ermida de Santo António), which houses an exhibition of sacred art; and the San Salvador Renaissance church, erected between 1538 and 1554.
One of the charms of Alcoutim is the river, where one can take boat trips, enjoy a variety of water sports, or go kayaking or fishing. There is also the artificial river beach of Pego Fundo, a ten-minute walk from the centre of Alcoutim. This space offers typical beach amenities, like a chiringuito bar, sun beds, showers and toilets, children's play area and ample parking.
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Jon Garay y Gonzalo de las Heras
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