Hvar unveiled: Croatia's island treasures

As Croatia's popularity as a holiday destination continues to rise, many visitors arrive in the gateway city of Split and fall into the tourist trap of staying there. While Split does offer a party scene and historic sites like Diocletian's palace, the surge in tourism has led to overcrowding, dirtier streets and poorer beach quality. Just an hour away by ferry lies Hvar island, with fares starting at €9 and six daily departures in autumn.

Visiting in October means enjoying mid-20s temperatures and fewer tourists, making Hvar a perfect alternative. The island offers vibrant nightlife in Hvar Town and tranquillity in smaller villages, all while showcasing a rich cultural heritage where contemporary influences blend with ancient history, providing a more authentic experience away from Split's crowds.

Hvar Island boasts a rich history dating back to ancient times, establishing it as one of Croatia's key cultural destinations. Originally inhabited by the Greeks in the 4th century BC, it was once the site of Pharos, now known as Stari Grad (Old Town). The Greeks created the Stari Grad Plain, an ancient agricultural landscape that remains intact today and is recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site. This area exemplifies ancient land division and is still actively cultivated, offering a glimpse into centuries-old agricultural practices.

Over the centuries, Hvar thrived as a vital naval and trading hub due to its strategic location in the Adriatic Sea. This attracted diverse cultural influences, notably from the Romans and Venetians, who significantly impacted Hvar's architecture and identity. Under Venetian control from the 13th to 17th centuries, the island saw the emergence of a unique blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, evident in the stunning palaces of Hvar Town.

Today, visitors can explore Hvar's historical landmarks, including the impressive Fortica Fortress, which offers panoramic views of the town and sea, Hvar Cathedral and the Franciscan Monastery. Each site tells a story of the island's fascinating past, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in its rich heritage. The blend of diverse cultures and historical influences make Hvar an enriching travel experience.

For those seeking evening excitement, Hvar Town offers bustling nightlife, often hailed as the jewel of the Croatian party scene. The town transforms into a lively hub, with bars and clubs open late into the night. Evenings typically begin at popular beach bars like Hula Hula, where guests enjoy cocktails against stunning sea views. For a more exclusive experience, the unique Carpe Diem beach club located on a private island just a ten-minute boat ride from the harbour - provides glamorous access to international DJs, with ticket prices including transfer. Similarly, Veneranda - perched on a hill above Hvar Town and located in an old monastery is an open-air club with spectacular views and dynamic music events. While these renowned venues cater to an upscale tourist crowd, reflected in their prices, the streets also come alive at night with local bars showcasing a relaxed Mediterranean ambiance for those seeking a more laid-back experience.

In contrast to Hvar Town's lively nightlife, families and those seeking a more tranquil and affordable experience can enjoy the inviting atmosphere of the charming villages scattered across the island. Just a short bus ride from the harbour, picturesque towns like Milna (population 104) and Stari Grad (2,772) offer a peaceful retreat. While these towns host a small fraction of the amount of bars and restaurants in Hvar Town, they provide an opportunity to connect with locals and experience authentic island life.

Stari Grad, with its enchanting old town and rich history, invites exploration, while Milna, renowned for its natural beauty and peacefulness, provides the perfect setting to unwind and connect with nature. Each village presents a distinct Hvar beach experience as it showcases Croatia's 2024 status as home to the cleanest seawater in the European Union, according to the European Environment Agency, highlighted in Forbes and Time Out magazine. The bright turquoise colour of the sea serves as a testament to this purity and set the stage for the filming site of the majestic city of Meereen in the Game of Thrones series.

Many beaches are nestled alongside forests, providing ample shaded spots under the pine trees. For the adventurous, a stroll through the woods can lead to secluded beaches. The essential oils from the Aleppo pine are known to remedy respiratory illnesses, making a walk to the beach not only enjoyable but beneficial for your health. In October, visitors can also appreciate the lavender fields, which, while not in full bloom, still contribute a subtle fragrance to the island. There are various organised hikes, bike rentals, and other outdoor activities to keep you active.

Hvar Island offers a culinary experience that blends Balkan traditions with coastal influences and Mediterranean flavours. Its proximity to the sea ensures an abundance of fresh seafood dishes, featuring local catches of grilled fish, shellfish, and hearty fish stews such as gregada, a traditional dish made with potatoes, herbs and white wine.

The island also showcases classic Balkan dishes, including stuffed vegetables - such as peppers and courgettes filled with rice, meat and spices - as well as traditional Balkan pastries from local bakeries. Unique to the island, Hvar's abundance of lavender has inspired chefs to incorporate the herb into desserts and dishes, such as with goat cheese and lavender ice cream.

Committed to the principles of the Mediterranean diet, local cuisine emphasises seasonal, fresh ingredients, local herbs and locally sourced olive oil ensuring a wholesome and flavourful dining experience. Complementing these dishes are the island's wines, made from native grape varieties such as 'Plavac Mali' and 'Bogdanusa'. Regional spirits like rakija (a strong fruit brandy) also add a more local touch.