A medieval game making a big splash in Seville

Seville is world-renowned for being a city of fiestas, festivals and celebrations, although one of the most popular and picturesque (albeit a little known to outsiders) takes place on the other side of the river in Triana during the last week of July. The Velá de Santa Ana, a small fair whose roots go back to the 17th century, attracts hundreds of locals and visitors who head to Calle Betis on the banks of the River Guadalquivir to enjoy several days of cultural and sporting events.

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This year’s festivities begin on Sunday 21 and last until Friday 26 July and include live music and dance performances, ‘casetas’ offering traditional cuisine from the district, as well as chess, dominoes, padel and pétanque competitions. There are also many activities that take place on the river, such as the annual fishing contest, although one of the most unique is the tradition of La Cucaña, a competition that requires skill, determination and plenty of courage.

People of different ages participate in this activity, attempting to demonstrate their skills at manoeuvring along a horizontal pole placed on the bow of a river barge.

This may not seem too difficult to complete, until one realises that the pole, which is around 12 metres in length, is smeared with a slippery substance like tallow or grease. Participants must reach the end of the pole in order to retrieve the small flag, and those who succeed win a prize of around 300 euros. Most, however, fail to run, walk or shimmy along the pole for more than a few feet, before plunging into the river, which might not be a bad thing - temperatures at this time of year are hovering around 40 degrees.

There are those who practise their technique throughout the year to triumph in this medieval pastime, and those who just participate for the thrill of the experience. The seasoned participants will usually wait until two or three novices attempt the feat, after which, the amount of grease is reduced. However, organisers are quick to smear plenty more after a few attempts have been made.

Sponsored by Cajasol, Burger King and the municipal cleaning and environmental protection company, Lipasam, the cucaña, which is held around 6pm each afternoon, has become one of the most popular events of the Santa Ana fair, both for participants and spectators.

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The tradition of the cucaña, which means ‘greased pole’, is thought to go back to 16th-century Naples, when the city was the capital of the Viceroyalty of New Spain. The ‘cuccagna’, as it was known in Naples, was a contest that was played out either on a horizontal pole in coastal areas, or on a vertical pole located in the main squares. At this time, the winner was not rewarded financially, instead receiving salami, pasta or cheese.

From Naples, the popular game came to Spain, becoming the star attraction at festivities all over the country, but in particular in coastal areas or those close to a river.

It also captured the attention of Francisco de Goya, who produced an oil on canvas called The Greasy Pole (this is currently on display as part of the Abelló collection exhibition in Malaga).

The cucaña was a popular theme of the iconography of the eighteenth century that the Spanish painter had previously used for his tapestry drawings.

In Seville, the cuccagna became cucaña, and it would eventually reach the New World, where it was known by different names. It is believed to have first served as training exercise for sailors in Seville, before becoming a popular pastime for the adventurous.

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The first time a cucaña was officially organised as an attraction in Seville was in 1852, on the occasion of the birth of the third daughter of the Dukes of Montpensier, although the event took place on a boat further down the river in front of the San Telmo palace.

In 1910, it became part of the programme of events organised during the Velá de Santa Ana, although the old sand ship that was originally used sank a few years ago. The current boat was donated by Lipasam.