Mar de Sazzon in Estepona: A modern take on Mediterranean cuisine

A quick glance is enough to see that it’s designed to appeal to all kinds of diners, even those who aren’t particularly keen on seafood, although at Mar de Sazzon it is precisely the flavours of the sea that take precedence over those of meat, though it must be said that the menu does feature quite a few cuts of beef and other options, such as the classic tomahawk steak, aged beef entrecôte, grilled Iberian pork or even braised poussin.

In the charcuterie section, a selection of rich, flavoursome Andalusian cold cuts and cheeses stands out, perfectly aged, with the salchichón cured sausage and caña de lomo cured pork loin being particularly noteworthy. Lobster with pipirrana salad is another specialty that often looks visually striking elsewhere but proves somewhat bland in taste; here, however, the trend is reversed, resulting in one of the most refreshing, distinctly Mediterranean dishes on the menu. But where a seafood restaurant truly stands or falls is in its fish and shellfish, whether large or small.

This chapter speaks for itself, where boiled or grilled king prawns can sit perfectly alongside Malaga clams and seared cockles, together with grilled scarlet prawns served in a white butter sauce. Seafood doesn’t usually feature on the daily menu; it all depends on what’s come in at the fish market that day, and the same goes for the fish of the day.

Fried small fish aren’t the restaurant’s ‘speciality’, and only the cuttlefish croquettes, the garlic prawns and the fried squid stand out in the fried dishes section, sharing the spotlight with tempura vegetables or aubergines with cane honey - one of those dishes I’d personally remove from most menus for many reasons. That said, I’d go for the charcoal-grilled sole for its reputation and the sea bass burger for its creativity; the larger oven-baked fish are the perfect accompaniment to round off a meal with one of the rice dishes prepared by José Francisco.

We can always opt for chicken and vegetable rice, seafood rice or the creamy prawn rice. My advice is to take their recommendation and round off the meal with a rice dish that isn’t on the menu; the bone marrow and beef rice is one of the most highly recommended options due to its rich flavour.

The wine list reflects this same culinary philosophy, although it is by no means lacking in international influences, particularly in the white wines section, where the selection of Andalusian fortified wines and wines from Malaga more than live up to all expectations.