Having visited this restaurant, I have no doubt that it is the most exclusive space in the new Hotel Hacienda del Mar Meliá Collection, which ... has just opened its doors this season right on the beachfront in Estepona. For regular guests of Bardot, the poolside restaurant at the Gran Hotel Meliá Don Pepe, currently closed for renovations, Neguri shares many culinary similarities. However, when you consider its location, decor, daily live music, and overall ambiance, this establishment is destined to become a landmark and premier dining destination for this entire stretch of the Costa del Sol.
Leading the kitchen as executive chef is Victor Carracedo, who has crafted Neguri's menu around locally sourced ingredients from both land and sea. Grilled vegetables and meats stand on equal footing with the fish and seafood, most of which comes straight from the Estepona fish market.
From day one at Neguri, Víctor has shown a masterclass in the art of grilling and searing fish, vegetables, and meats. The beef ribeye served to our table was cooked to perfection in terms of temperature and maturing. Yet, he is equally capable of executing a refreshing, well-balanced take on Mediterranean Spanish cuisine, such as the tuna tartar with mango and seared avocado. He also throws in subtle nods to Asian cuisine with tuna or salmon poke bowls, alongside a dedicated effort to satisfy guests craving pasta or pizza (with the mortadella, stracciatella, and pistachio pizza standing out as a highlight). After all, we shouldn't forget that Mediterranean cuisine encompasses various distinct culinary traditions that go well beyond a single style.
Mastery of the technique
But what is not often the case is coming across a skilled grill chef who also knows all the secrets and puts them into practice when it comes to making a good rice dish. Víctor Carracedo, in charge of the grill at the Erre grill restaurant in the Meliá Don Pepe Hotel, has already amply demonstrated that he has mastered the technique of grilling or braising meat, fish and vegetables, as well as that of cooking a good rice dish. At Neguri, the selection of rice dishes on the menu is quite extensive, perhaps far more extensive than is usually found in this part of the Costa del Sol, ranging from the classic ‘senyoret’, black rice and ‘sea and mountain’ to a hearty dish with octopus and scallops or a chicken and artichoke version.
Given the positive response from customers and the demand for this grain, it is quite possible that the restaurant will expand its range of rice dishes in a few months’ time. When visiting Neguri with the intention of having rice, it's best to take your time over a few appetisers to give the kitchen enough time to cook your rice dish to perfection. Speaking of recommendations, the grilled scarlet prawn (carabinero) and the seared king prawns really hit the spot with their texture, flavour and perfect cooking.
The wine list features and recommends a good selection of wines from Malaga, Spain and abroad. And, as I’ve always maintained, good service can turn a lunch into a thoroughly enjoyable experience, and at Neguri they make sure that’s exactly what happens.
NEGURI
- Address: A7, km 1066, Estepona.
- Telephone: 952 809 500.
- Closed: Open everyday.
- Website: www.melia.com.
- Prices: Tuna tartare: 28€; White prawn rice: 36€; Beef entrecôte: 53€.
- Rating: Cuisine: 7.5/10; Dining room: 7/10; Wine list: 6.5/10. Overall rating: 7.5/10.
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