El Molcajete: home to the most genuine flavours of authentic Mexican food

A ‘molcajete’ is a mortar made from volcanic stone, used in traditional Mexican cooking to grind, crush and mix ingredients such as chillies, spices, herbs and vegetables. Its origins date back centuries to the pre-Hispanic period, yet it remains in daily use in the kitchen of the Fuengirola restaurant that takes its name. It reflects the commitment of those behind El Molcajete to the essence of traditional Mexican cooking.

Alberto Mantilla is the chef and owner. A pioneer in bringing Mexican food to the Costa del Sol, he opened one of Marbella's first Mexican restaurants more than 30 years ago. It leaned towards Tex-Mex and ran for more than 15 years. After a spell in London, he returned to Malaga in 2017 to fulfil his professional dream: a restaurant where he could share the value of his home country's traditional cooking. That’s how El Molcajete was born in Fuengirola, a culinary temple devoted to the most genuine flavours of Mexican gastronomy.

El Molcajete goes beyond Mexican food clichés to offer an authentic experience, with dishes that are hard to find elsewhere on the Costa del Sol. Alberto brings recipes to the table that have been in his family for generations, passed down by his mother and grandmother. Everything is made by hand in the kitchen, from the corn tortillas to the desserts and sauces. To guarantee the true flavour of each dish, 90 per cent of the ingredients are imported from Mexico.

The complexity of the cooking is another hallmark. Take the moles: each can take up to three days to prepare and use as many as 30 different ingredients. The dish reflects the influence of Puebla, the Mexican state Alberto comes from, where the distinctive mole negro is made, with chocolate among its many ingredients. At El Molcajete, they also make a green mole based on vegetables and a pink one, coloured with beetroot.

Fittingly, the molcajete itself is central to some dishes. They heat it over a flame for 20 minutes to serve as the base for a mixed grill of beef, chicken and chorizo, among other meats, so diners can make their own tacos and cook the meat just how they like it.

Another dish with Puebla roots is chile en nogada. Although it is the emblematic dish of Mexico’s Independence Day celebrations, you can enjoy it year-round at the Fuengirola restaurant. It’s another example of the kitchen’s hand-made approach: a poblano chilli stuffed with beef and candied seasonal fruit, covered in a walnut sauce made with walnuts, goat’s cheese and cream cheese. It’s then decorated with red pomegranate seeds and parsley, so the dish shows the colours of the Mexican flag.

The wide choice of tacos is another speciality. The tacos al pastor are made on a vertical spit, like the kind used for kebab meat that Arabs brought to Mexico. Alberto carves slices of pork from the spit, seasoned with Mexican chillies and onion, giving the tacos a distinctive flavour.

Diners can also try other mouth-watering options such as cochinita pibil.

The kitchen also draws on influences from elsewhere and the quality of local produce, as in dishes such as tuna tostada with sriracha sauce. Every day, it surprises even its regulars with off-menu dishes and daily recommendations.

The pastry work deserves a mention too, with hand-made desserts such as pastel de elote, a corn sponge soaked in Baileys with mezcal.

Mexican cocktails are part of the restaurant’s focus on authenticity. The drinks list offers a broad selection of the finest Mexican spirits, with up to 50 types of tequila and 30 of mezcal.

Micheladas, one of its most popular drinks, are also on the menu. They combine beer and lime juice with a range of sauces.

El Molcajete will of course be marking Día de Muertos (the Day of the Dead), perhaps the most important date in the Mexican festive calendar. The restaurant is putting the finishing touches to its altar for the occasion, which this year is dedicated to the famous Mexican painter Frida Kahlo. The restaurant will unveil it on Friday 30 October and, over the weekend, present its dishes at the altar.

The event will also feature live mariachi performances, mezcal tastings and special dishes linked to the festival, such as pan de muerto, a dessert made from oven-baked sweet bread with sugar and sesame seeds.

One last tip: if you plan to visit El Molcajete, book several days ahead. Its food is highly regarded across the Costa del Sol, and booking is the best way to ensure you get a table.

More information:

Address: Calle Palangre 1/Av Miramar 25. Fuengirola 29640.

Phone: +34 667 80 87 42.

Instagram: @elmolcajetefuengirola