Marinated anchovies, a great summer treat on the Costa del Sol

We're already in the middle of summer. It's hot, and we crave food that can ease this feeling of stifling heat. Boquerones (anchovies), a national dish but also a very Malaga-style product, are a great option to enjoy at home - although, while they look simple to prepare, it's important to know how to balance all the elements - and there are innovations; for example some restaurants serve them with chopped tomatoes, adding a refreshing touch.

I'm going to tell you how to make 'boquerones en vinagre' and where you can eat them, but also about the origins of a traditional recipe born out of the need to preserve this type of fish when there were no means of refrigeration like modern day fridges or freezers. Vinegar has always been a great ally for this, and as often happens, a flavour born out of necessity has become a national staple, though they don't always turn out as one might expect.

This recipe, because it doesn't always have to be anchovies, is one of the most acclaimed combinations in Spanish cuisine, but it's not always easy to get it right. Purists know they may find anchovies that are too acidic, overcured, or too tough; this is why I'm going to tell you how to make them first, and then we'll move on to where you should eat them if you don't fancy preparing them.

The first step is to buy them. It's essential that the raw ingredient is good quality. The 'boquerones' must be fresh, and as a tip, their skin should be very shiny; this is a key point to remember. Once you have bought them, it's time to gut and clean them. It takes a lot of patience, the mother of all sciences. Use a sharp knife to slice open the fish in order to remove the spine, leaving the tail intact. After this, put them in the freezer, freezing is crucial for the final result just before marinating. Get ready 300 ml of vinegar and 100 ml of very cold water; the amount of vinegar to water depends on the strength of flavour you prefer, so adjust slightly according to your taste.

Remove the boquerones from the freezer half an hour before using. Add salt, the vinegar and water and put them in the fridge in a container. Leave them for a minimum of four hours, and when you take them out, it's time to add the garlic and parsley. The finishing touch that enhances almost any recipe: olive oil, but be careful not to overdo it, just enough to properly dress the anchovies and bring everything together. It's time to eat and enjoy them on your own or with family; if you can do so on a little porch or in a garden, enjoying the good weather, all the better - the right setting is important.

If you don't feel like spending all that time in preparing them, there are several places in Malaga where you can enjoy them properly. The first, served with chopped tomatoes and a bit of garlic, is the Taberna del Puerto in El Candado, where they serve them fresh, and I can assure you they never disappoint. They are also very tasty at the Kiosko de Pedregalejo, famous for its fried fish in the eastern part of the city. Victoria in El Palo and El Tintero are good options if you're still in the east.

You can order them in the Mercado de Atarazanas, and they'll taste wonderful. Continuing in the old town, Buenavista Gastrobar on Calle Gaona is another option. Gradually moving west, stop by the Mercado del Carmen, and when it comes to beach bars, María is one of the best places to offer top-quality 'boquerones', no matter how they're prepared - they are truly delicious.

Before I finish, I must warn you to be careful preparing this dish, because if it's not done correctly, it could ruin a few summer days. The culprit is a parasite you've likely heard of, anisakis, which can be found in the form of larvae or cysts in all types of fish. In this case, if the anchovies aren't cleaned properly, beware. Freezing overnight helps to remove the risk but they need to be well-marinated; a minimum of four hours is the key.