Ambigú at La Térmica Malaga: A cuisine of concepts

Alejandra Pérez has taken another step forward in a long career in catering - and she does so from a strong position, having spent more than twenty years at the helm of some of Malaga's most established restaurants. Her latest venture is in La Térmica, a neighbourhood with real potential, and it's exactly the kind of place the city could do with more of: a family-run restaurant, spacious and bright, with well-defined spaces, traditional cooking with a measured modern touch and prices that won't leave anyone wincing. That restaurant is El Ambigú de La Térmica - though regular diners may recall that Alejandra previously ran a restaurant of almost the same name nearby, the only difference being that Térmica replaces Coracha in the title.

If the menu and the execution of many of the dishes impressed me, what won me over most - and what seems to be winning over a largely local clientele - is the warmth of Alejandra herself, and the friendliness and professionalism of both her front and back of house teams. These are the qualities that really make a restaurant stick in neighbourhoods away from the city centre, which these days has become almost a theme park.

El Ambigú de La Térmica was always meant to be a neighbourhood meeting place - somewhere offering honest cooking at reasonable prices, with generous helpings of good cheer. That said, not every dish hits the mark. Those looking for a more modern edge may be disappointed by some offerings: the cod on orange crumbs feels too sweet, and the warm sweet potato salad tips into over-elaboration. But set against these are dishes that genuinely shine, like the tuna tartar on shrimp omelette, which has quietly become a talking point, or the hearty daily stews - the ribs with potato stew being a particular standout. This restaurant is proof of how to succeed with simplicity.

The fusion of creativity and tradition that reigns in this house is reflected from the very first moment in this warm salad of sweet potato and roasted pumpkin with yoghurt. The first bite is surprisingly sweet.

A very successful reinvention of oil-confit cod. The breadcrumbs scattered over a bitter orange preserve add a hint of sweetness to the fish while reinforcing its texture and making it more enveloping on the palate.

A tuna of the right quality in thick chunks to enhance its flavour, originally resting on an over-fried shrimp fritter accompanied by wakame and guacamole.

Locas Malagueñas look set to become one of the most popular desserts on restaurant menus across the city. Alejandra doubles down on both sweetness and flavour, delivering a version that will delight anyone with a sweet tooth.