Classic tourist resorts and much more: Torremolinos and Benalmádena

The first towns visitors came to when arriving at Malaga airport and heading west were Torremolinos and Benalmádena. Each had then and still has its own charm with old towns, promenades and bustling streets.

Perched on a cliff edge facing the Mediterranean, the iconic Bil Bil castle in Benalmádena Costa has hardly changed since the 1980s, when the town hall acquired the building and completely renovated it. The scene on the patio still offers a cooling ambience with its Moorish style ponds and fountains and abundance of palm trees.

Because of its spectacular location, it is now the most popular venue for civil weddings in the province of Malaga.

The two-kilometre stretch of promenade that passes the iconic Nasrid-style edifice was renamed Paseo Marítimo La Virgen del Carmen in 2020 in honour of the town’s patron. This section was renovated - as part of a project to enhance the whole promenade - with new paving tiles, balustrades and LED lighting, which creates an even more majestic appearance of the castle after dark.

In May of this year, an 800,000-euro project to renovate the interior of the building, the first of its kind since the council took possession, was announced. The project seeks to improve the building’s energy efficiency and enhance its functionality and appeal.

The train station in Arroyo de la Miel, located on the Cercanías C1 line, was inaugurated in July 1975, when the commuter rail service between Malaga and Fuengirola began operating. As with many of the train stations on this line, thousands of commuters and tourists passed through this stop and, until the late 1990s, one of their main criticisms was accessibility, especially for people in wheelchairs or those with heavy luggage. Renfe then launched a project to renovate the facilities of the station. This included the installation of an elevator, escalators and a new entrance with ticket machines and electronic barriers to prevent passengers from travelling without a ticket.

Also, a new taxi rank was constructed outside the station, which boasts a shaded seating area to protect passengers from the sun while waiting.

In December 2016, Renfe completed another one-million-euro project to further improve accessibility. This included raising one platform (track 2) for easier wheelchair access, as well as the complete renovation of the entrance and ticket area.

The story of Los Mellizos is, above all, a story of hard work, family and a love of Malaga cuisine.

It all began in 1962, when Pepe Montes and Loli Montero opened a small tavern in the La Malagueta part of Malaga city. The Taberna de Pepe Montes was the last of the old buildings in the neighbourhood to survive before the area was expropriated. Those were tough years, full of long days and sacrifice, where every dish served reflected the care and dedication put into it.

After selling their home and business, the family opened a beachside eatery on Playa del Salón in Nerja. They stayed there for almost two decades until 1978, when they moved to Benalmádena and opened Saint Tropez Los Mellizos during the tourist boom.

This change marked a turning point: the couple’s children, known in the sector as ‘Los Mellizos’, took over the business and, with enthusiasm and determination, began expanding it into one of the most recognised hospitality groups on the Costa del Sol.

The Montes siblings - Pascual, Florencio, Ramón and Pedro - left school at a young age to help their parents. Growing up among stoves and counters gave them invaluable experience and a deep understanding of the ingredients they use every day. That close connection to the sea and the land has become the hallmark of their restaurants.

Nearly fifty years later, that small beachside restaurant in Benalmádena has grown into a strong group with eight establishments across the Costa del Sol, from Malaga city centre to Marbella, and its own fish market.

This growth has only strengthened their bond with Malaga, the land where they were born and raised.

Today, Los Mellizos stands for tradition, quality and warmth. It is a company that has evolved without losing what matters most: the authentic flavour of the famous Malaga ‘pescaíto frito’ fried fish and the family spirit that gave it life.

César Manrique’s mark on Benalmádena is profound and has been etched into the town’s history. Known for his impressive architectural projects, the Lanzarote artist created in 1981 the Jardines del Muro in Benalmádena Pueblo, a garden designed on what was then a steep hillside with rocky soil and sparse vegetation.

He transformed it into an area of great interest and scenic value. It combines a small temple and a traditional Mediterranean-style viewing balcony, with natural elements such as a waterfall with six tiered pools made from local rocks, and a network of landscaped paths and walkways on various levels, weaving through the grounds and stopping at various viewpoints.

It was the then mayor, Enrique Bolin who invited Manrique to Benalmádena after falling in love with the work the painter, sculptor, architect, urban planner and landscaper had done in Tenerife and Lanzarote.

Although the layout of the garden has changed little over the last 40 years, the view from the viewing balcony has changed considerably. What was once a large open space that stretched down to the coast has been replaced with a skyline of apartment blocks and hotels constructed to cater for the town’s expanding population and influx of tourists who visit every year.

Although ongoing maintenance work has been carried out in the garden over the years, last year, a 450,000-euro project began to enhance the entire area, repairing damage, restoring shrubs and planting new ones, along with repairing the pavilion and the path network, and upgrading and reactivating the waterfall, which has been fitted with new lighting.

The hotel has undergone several renovations over the last four decades, the last of which was in 2015, when the business changed hands. The biggest transformation has taken place on the avenue where the hotel is located. In 2022, a strategic project was launched to transform the marina access points.

For many years, this avenue suffered with traffic congestion, especially during the high season, as it is the main access to the restaurants and nightlife venues in the marina.

Twelve million euros of investment, largely financed by European Edusi funds, was spent to adapt Avenida Alay, the main thoroughfare connecting Avenida Antonio Machado with the entrance to Puerto Marina.

This avenue had not changed in more than two decades, and this transformation involved facilitating pedestrian access and transforming the avenue into a more open space with wider pavements, new street lighting and more green areas.

It also included the removal of the underground tunnel, which for many years had served to alleviate the traffic jams that formed in this area. This was done at the request of local business owners because it reduced visibility.

This street has always been popular with visitors and locals because it also offers a variety of traditional taverns and bodegas, a few of which have been in operation for more than 50 years. Another long-standing business is Heladería San Miguel, which has been serving homemade ice cream since 1980.

One aspect that has not changed over the last 40 years are the picturesque white houses and apartments with balconies overflowing with plants located above the street’s shops, which offer an image of the past mingled with the modernity of the 21st century.

Famous for the image of a policeman standing on a raised platform on the junction with Calle San Miguel, Plaza Costa del Sol has changed beyond recognition over the last four decades. Throughout the 1980s and 1990s, this area, dominated by the old ficus tree until the first decade of 2000, attracted locals and tourists for its abundance of attractive bars and restaurants, some of which are engraved into the town’s history.

After closing the area to traffic in 2015, plans were put in motion to completely renovate the area, turning it into a pedestrianised boulevard complete with an emblematic pergola, green areas, ponds, fountains and water features. This was the largest urban transformation undertaken in Torremolinos since the 1960s and was inaugurated on St Valentines Day 2019.

The introduction of the water features, along with reinstalling the old fountain in its original location in the square, highlighted the strong connection Torremolinos has with water.

Today, this is the central hub of the town, hosting cultural events and boasting sculptures, and several colourful murals of celebrities who have visited.

The square remained much the same until 2018, when the comprehensive renovation of the Cercanías train station began, a project that suffered numerous setbacks and was not finished until July 2022. The entire square was dug up while the work, exceeding seven million euros, was carried out to make it fully accessible in compliance with EU regulations.

The latest transformation of this space began in 2024. A three-million-euro renovation project was agreed upon with local business owners to transform the large open space into one with fountains and water features to provide dynamism and freshness. The project, a key feature of which are the pergolas equipped with renewable energy collection systems, is due to be finished this year.

The space was repaved and fitted with antique-style street lights and an intriguing bronze statue dedicated to flamenco, while a large marble fountain became the central focus of the square. The enhancement of this space attracted many new business and bars, including Dutch, British and Irish, while the Cudeca cancer charity opened the first of its shops in Torremolinos in this square almost 20 years ago. It was once the site of the town’s tourist offices and the foreign residents’ department, both of which have been relocated to different areas of the town.

More recently, sun awnings have been installed to protect those enjoying the cultural events staged here.