El Rompido in Huelva - a paradise for nature lovers

El Rompido might be on the coast but, paradoxically, it takes a boat trip to reach the sea. This is because of a long sand bank - La Flecha (the arrow) - that runs parallel to the coastline in this part of the province of Huelva in western Andalucía. For the locals, this has the advantage that they are protected from the forces of the sea, as the mouth of the river Piedras and the strip of sand lie between them.  

The small harbour of El Rompido is also well protected and anyone wanting to go canoeing, sailing or surfing for the first time can do so in the sheltered waters along the estuary.

Meanwhile the more confident water sports enthusiasts can head for the open sea on the other side of La Flecha.

El Rompido, which belongs to the municipality of Cartaya, is small. The village has just over 2,000 inhabitants and is quiet and peaceful until June, with a few walkers and golfers making up the only visitors. It is not until July that the holidaymakers arrive, including many Spanish families, and then it gets louder and livelier.

El Rompido, with its narrow alleyways, whitewashed houses and quaint squares, is easy to explore on foot. In the centre are several restaurants serving fresh fish and seafood, ice cream parlours and, in summer, craft stalls.

In the middle of the village square, opposite the tourist office, is Doña Gamba, one of the most popular restaurants in El Rompido, which also has a branch in the small El Faro shopping centre below the lighthouse. Atún encebollado (tuna with onions), tortillitas de camarones (a type of shrimp fritter) or a plate of fresh prawns are among the most popular dishes here.

From Doña Gamba in the shopping centre you also have a wonderful view of the small harbour and the landing pier for the boat that crosses over to La Flecha every hour.

Overlooking this is a landmark of El Rompido - the red and white lighthouse, which serves as a guide for ships entering and leaving the estuary. Next to the new lighthouse is the older one, a building from the 19th century, that has been renovated and refurbished for conferences, congresses and events.

To the east of El Rompido lie extensive marshlands that form the natural park known as Marismas del Río Piedras y Flecha del Rompido. Rivers, marshes, dunes and unspoiled beaches come together here. The nature reserve is a paradise for rare bird species. Crabs and fish provide food for the waterfowl and seabirds that visit this enclave on their migration routes. Wading birds such as the distinctive oystercatcher, whose black and white plumage contrasts with its pink legs, and the striking red-crested pochard, which spends the winter in this area, can be seen here. Cormorants and various species of gulls can also be admired.

However, the biggest natural attraction of this seaside village is undoubtedly the Flecha itself, which is over ten kilometres long. Its white-yellow, fine sandy beach offers visitors crystal-clear water and a breathtaking view of the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean.

Anyone heading to the area outside high season may well have the beach and the dunes, with their gorse bushes and stone pines, almost to themselves. Those who visit in the peak season will still find peace and quiet on the extensive beaches.

Most visitors stay close to the kiosk located at the end of the wooden walkway between the jetty and the beach which also rents out parasols and sunbeds.

For visitors staying in El Rompido for several days who do not want to spend every day on the beach, there are several excursion options available.

One idea is to drive east along the coast to Punta Umbría, where the white beaches are kilometres long and ideal for long walks.

Alternatively, a drive in the other direction takes you across the border into Portugal. The Spanish border town of Ayamonte can be reached by car in around 30 minutes and from there the road crosses a bridge to the small Portuguese village of Vila Real de Santo António.

Another - more pleasant - option is to leave the car at the harbour in Ayamonte and take the boat to Vila Real de Santo António, which is directly opposite on the other side of the Guadiana river. The journey takes about ten minutes and you are immediately in the town centre.

Santo António used to be a place the Spanish went to to buy cheap towels, tablecloths and bed linen. Many of these shops can still be seen today in this small town on the Algarve, which has a beautiful pedestrianised area. A walk along the beautiful promenade in Vila Real de Santo António is also a good idea before travelling back to Huelva.

Heading east again past Punta Umbria on the other side of the Odiel estuary and not far from Huelva city is La Rábida, with its monastery brimming over with seafaring history.