The world will soon be awash with prosecco. Officially a wine, it ticks only two out of many boxes: it is cheap to buy and pleasant to drink.
That does not stop the usual suspects asking why Spanish cava cannot do what prosecco has done? After all, it is a low-cost bubbly that is easy to make in almost unlimited quantities.
The previously reviewed Aster Ribera del Duero was the 2014 vintage, while this is the newly released 2016 version, produced by the Rioja Alta bodega group The 100% tempranillo is once again a perfectly made red wine in the old tradition, with lots of fruit both on the nose and in the mouth. A reasonably-priced classic of its type. Around €15.
The practical difference between the two is that while prosecco is fermented in tanks, cava is fermented in the bottle, accounting for its superior quality.
The environmental costs relating to prosecco are higher. In areas of Italy the vines take precedence over practically everything else that grows.
Centenarian olive groves have been uprooted to plant vines, even in key areas like Treviso that have been nominated UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Thousands of beautiful cypresses have been felled and water sources have been polluted by pesticides.
And while those who make prosecco walk away with huge profits, those who live in the region, and suffer the environmental consequences, don't benefit.
In the decade up to 2020 most of Italy's agricultural grants went to the prosecco lobby.
Recently approval was given for another 6,000 hectares to be given over to its production.
Why has Spain's cava not achieved the sales growth of prosecco over the last decade? Is it the same old story, like the one about Italians buying Spanish olive oil and selling it to the world as Italian because Spanish producers are no good at marketing?
No, it is because rape of the countryside is not on cava-makers' agenda.